i work on a bunch of old refrigeration equipment and generators and i would say that heat is not a good idea on this.. because heat will make the bolt expand... to use heat you need to heat up the crank or what ever the bolts screwed into.... but from experience heat is the last resort.. if you heat up the head of the bolt... and then get on it.. it will probably break... you need to heat whatever the bolts screwed into....

 

Let's take a step back, just how on earth are you doing this? I hope you left the spark plugs IN the motor when trying to loosen the crank bolt. If not, put them back in. This will create compression and the motor will be more resistant to turning over. Next after that if that doesn't work, take a big *** flat blade screwdriver through one of the inspection cover holes in the transmission and wedge it between one of the teeth on the flexplate and have a helper hold it while you try again. It will come loose. If not you need a new impact gun or more air pressure.

 

lol.... There's so many things I could say, but I won't...lol

I have a UDP, and ODP to install and I was going to try it myself, but it sounds like I better get some help with this one. All this talk about eating bacon, lube and heat... Sounds more like a bad **** than a truck part!!

 

I had a friend that used ethnic engineering to get one loose from a 318 Valiant. He braced a bb against something up front,pulled the coil wire and had the owner crank it and it broke loose.

He had removed the radiator and had a clear path to push against the bb while it cranked.

He was a professional mech doing a in-front-of-the-house job.

 

You can also do it the one handed method...I have a torque multiplier tool for lug nuts that I used on Corvettes and the truck. With 33 to 1 ratio, 50lbs of torques will unloosen just about anything.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93645

Just block the flywheel, applier the multiplier tool and take your time. This is also excellent in putting an OEM bolt back on, just torque to 37 ft-lb, mark an measure 140 deg and turn. Now it will require many ratchet rotations but their is no effort in tightening it.

 

i had a lot of trouble with my crank pulley too i used my impact but i had to re-adjust my air compressor a couple times to get the amount of force i needed to break it loose lol took a about 2 hours too

 

A note on this, make sure its a BIG screwdriver. This is what happened to my favorite screwdriver

(click for bigger pic)

Luckily the crank bolt was already pretty tight and I was able to shake the head of the screwdriver out of the housing by moving the crank back and forth.

 

get an old belt and do this

 

Maybe I should purpose the question. Why does the bolt need to be that damn tight? The pulley isn't a slip fit, its not a tight press fit either but still no reason for the bolt to be that tight. I realize the bolt is there to clamp the pulley to the crank to keep it from slipping but still. Why not just use a key way like the Gen I does? Work too well? Cost too much to machine a key way and key? Probably knowing GM.

 

the jack handle worked on my camaro. Luckly it was a manual, so all I had to do was put it 6th and set the parking brake.