Yeah we have those used tire places up here. I got a set of 18s but I need tires for them and the used tire place doesnt sell 18" tires. So I gotta run the stockers for now till I can get some money for the tires then I can put the stock tires on to have fun with.

 

That is purty! Can't wait for it to be done and out hunting rice soon.
For those asking, the ring gaps are determined by multiplying the bore times a desired engine application. Most N/A vehicles use a multiplier of 0.004, so anyone other than Cody would aim for a gap of 0.016" ( 4.030 x 0.004 ). Boosted and N2O multiplier usually runs 0.006" for a gap of 0.024", just about exactly what they are targeting. Keep in mind the bore on engines differs so a general gap of 0.025" for Cody might not match a 5.7L bore and/or your target engine use.
One question, I usually only target gap the upper/first compression ring. The second ( if so equipped ) is not as critical since it does not see the direct combustion chamber exposure. I'm sure it can't hurt tho ( I do verify they are all the same for each cylinder ). Also glad it broke in the grinder and not during install or running. That ruins your day reeeel quick.

 

That is a general rule for ring gap. Different rings are made with different materials. Mine are plasma moly rings to be able to stand up to nitrous and FI well. Any ring set you buy will come with a chart or equation to figure out the ring gap for that particular set of rings. Mine are in the 24 range for the first ring and 26 for the second. Its a little bit more than necessary but just barely. I did it accidentally since I ground just a tad more than I should ahve but if the big Whipple blowers hit the market soon Ill be putting either the 3.3L or the 5L blower on the 418 this summer along with heads to drop the CR to a low 9:1 CR and put a blower cam in it since my current cam is on a 112lsa probably go with something in the 240 range on a 114lsa with 610 or so lift

 

Now I know why not too many people do the 418 build. The damn skirt of one of the pistons is hitting the counter weight on the crank Going to grind the crank tomorrow and go with it. It is barely scrapping it where there heavy metal was welded into the counter weight and thats even with the counter already being ground down some from EAGLE. One thing after another with this damn ting. But I got my cam and the heads and head gaskets are on their way. So barrign anymore hold ups this thign will be up and running by mid next week

 

What effect will this grinding have on the balance of the rotating system?

 

Not much. At first I thought the same thing but I talked to mjhoward and he brought out a good point the piston is BARELY scrapping the counter weight and Ill only need to grind off a little to make it clear and have the right clearance so Im not going to be grinding very much at all off. Considering the crank weighs 60(guesstimate) pounds and Ill be grinding off maybe a gram of material its not going to effect at all IMO especially since it is the #1 piston and the counterweight for that is right by the front of the block where I would think it would be stronger than the other middle mains IDK Im just going to do what I got to do to make it work

 

Did you have any problems with the crank clearing the block?

 

Nope its not the crank clearing the block that you have to watch out for its the bolts for teh rods that get damn close to the cylinder walls that are teh problem. A 4.200 stroke wouldnt work without modification to the block. My "little" project for the night is to "clearance" the counterweights on the crank wish me luck LOL.

 

good luck, your gonna need it

 

Yeah I already have it marked of where some of the material needs to be ground off. If I had time I would do it right and send it off to the machine shop but my b-day is the 8th and my buddies have had a big *** party planned for me and I aint going to miss it
It needs about 30-40 thousandths ground off on a couple the rest just need a little.