Also watch your dyno operator. Some of them like to make 6 or 7 passes in less than 10 minutes and never once look at your trans temps. Heat kills transmissions.

 

Other than shift "time" there isnt much else you need to do in the tune. You don't need to mess with any pressure modifiers or shift Pressures. Leave them all alone. The upgraded Hydraulics in a properly built transmission will raise the pressure across the board. Verifying pressure mechanically is also wise when a new trans is installed. An improperly calibrated Valvebody/Acuumulator set up will kill the transmission easily.

Setting up the torque Management will greatly help the longevity and holding capacity. Basically I ax the tables in HP tuners by 35% (multiply x .70 ) to start out and enable it at 480ft lbs up. Then you dont get any lag down low like most torque management gives. You shouldnt even notice it except if you are logging your timing.

Everybody should set the min max on the converter lock up so its 100% on/off more or less. BUT, if you put the right Transgo valve in the valvbody you dont need to touch those tables in the tune.

Here is a stout 4l60e Recipe:

Good quality Rebuild kit (obviously) I have had good luck with the alto HEG kits for a little better than the stock tan paper crap.

9 clutch 3-4 Borg warner High Energy w/kolene steels, clearance is crucial here.

Calibrated Valvebody / Proper seperator plate hole sizes, accumulator spring set ups. This all depends on HP and vehicle weight, gearing, converter, etc.

Transgo .500 boost valve, hi-rev spring kit, High rev pump spring/hardened rings, Sonax input sleeve kit, make sure you get the right kit for the input sleeve kit.
The beast sunshell
Sonnax Super hold servo,
Band depends on HP, the HE Borg warner good for 650+ depending.
New AC Delco Reverse input drum
Cryoed Output shaft
Sonnax HD 2-3 Shift Valve

The Converter is extremely important. The pros will guide you in the right direction. 9.5 to 10.5 nothing bigger.

Probably forgetting stuff, these are the basics. A lot of the fancy stuff isnt really necessary, its just combining the right parts and getting it to shift quick and not BANG. It shouldnt be spinning the tires on the shift.

I build my own 4l60's with the calibration and 3-4 stuff set up by Pro built automatics. So far I have had excellent results. I plan on cranking 800-1k hps at the tire next year with a Better turbo and I will find out my next weak link I am sure. Hopefully this info will help someone.

 

Great thread!

 

What thickness ,on the bw 3-4 steels and frictions, do you use?

 

I do have previous experience building and repairing stock units, not hard it was figuring out the upgrades that had me scratching my head (and had me banging it against a wall at times) just make sure to check your clearances, i have a thread on it.

 

I used jimmyblue's advice over on ls1tech.

A bone stock 4L60 needs to have tranny adjustments made.

If it's a HP rebuild, the changes you would make in the software are commanded by hard parts.

 

we had virtually the same transmissions lol agree with ya on PB Frank was the best to deal with

right on, thats when i should have left the truck alone, she was a beast, that was with the 6.0 if not mistaken. i personally think when it finally went it was the pump, i should have sent it back to PB since it would only cost me 1k, but i listen to a friend and let his friend check it out, was told everything was welded together, hard to believe it never slipped or made any kind of noises when it went it went no gears at all ( sounds like pump )


you know it


yep !

 

lots of good info thanks guys

 

Truck weighs roughly 5500-5600 lbs, 5.3 turning 411 HP/407 Tq. At the flywheel on my 4L60E that has been built up to a 4L70E. With every Sonnax part available. I also tow 6500 lbs with 4.30's and 33's.