THE Tru-Cool 40K GVW Transmission Cooler Install Thread
09-26-2018, 04:23 PM
#301
Not a big fan of AN fittngs where they're not needed. These GM quick disconnect trans lines are Jiffy Tite fittings. The GM push loc fuel line fittings are similar.
Don't worry about them going obsolete. There's tooling to make these oddball GM trans, fuel, and oil cooler lines along with ISO fuel lines and double inverted Vee brake line fittings.
The Mastercool 72485 Hydraulic crimp tool has the GM transmission and oil cooler line dies... Or you can buy one of the less complete sets with the slots in the case for all the dies, like I did, and buy the oddball dies as needed...
71099-TC Die and Adapter Set for 3/8" GM Transmission Cooling Line
71099-TC8 Die and Adapter Set for 1/2″ GM Transmission Cooling Line
They aren't cheap but quality tooling rarely is.
https://www.mastercool.com/product-c...flaring-tools/
Don't worry about them going obsolete. There's tooling to make these oddball GM trans, fuel, and oil cooler lines along with ISO fuel lines and double inverted Vee brake line fittings.
The Mastercool 72485 Hydraulic crimp tool has the GM transmission and oil cooler line dies... Or you can buy one of the less complete sets with the slots in the case for all the dies, like I did, and buy the oddball dies as needed...
71099-TC Die and Adapter Set for 3/8" GM Transmission Cooling Line
71099-TC8 Die and Adapter Set for 1/2″ GM Transmission Cooling Line
They aren't cheap but quality tooling rarely is.
https://www.mastercool.com/product-c...flaring-tools/
Last edited by hatzie; 09-26-2018 at 04:29 PM.
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randybill (02-12-2019)
11-02-2018, 08:52 AM
#302
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What sort of temps are you guys seeing with this cooler in the winter time when retaining the factory in-tank cooler? I'm wondering whether to use the tru-cool remote bypass to keep the fluid up to temp, in addition to retaining the factory in-tank cooler set-up. Thanks!
11-02-2018, 08:56 AM
#303
Launching!
my temps stay about 120-130 here in buffalo during the winter.
11-02-2018, 09:36 AM
#304
The plate cooler design self regulates. People seem to get all upset about "running too cool". Why do people assume the ATF needs to be at a high temp to operate properly?
-30°F and never rising above that is probably bad. Real world data shows operating temps above 110°F in the cold winter months even with a large plate cooler. The fluid path is through the 220°F radiator tank ATF coil before the AUX cooler so it rises fairly rapidly along with the engine temp. The AUX cooler is there to keep the temps below 180°F. My preference is closer to 160°F.
110-160°F will allow the ATF to flow the way it should without scorching the internals of the transmission and that seems to be the range people are seeing.
Water?
This isn't a motorcycle. The gearbox doesn't share the engine lube. It's separate so there's no H2O and partially or unburnt hydrocarbons from blowby gasses in your transmission that you need to boil off.
Condensation is unlikely to be a serious issue either. The factory cooler usually keeps the ATF far enough below the boiling point of water that if water was an issue it would be an issue with the factory oil cooler.
If you're that worried about it get four or five Blackstone reports and pay close attention to the wear metals and trapped water level in the fluid. UOA will tell you right away if there's an issue. Usually Blackstone has aggregated data from several similar vehicles using the same equipment as yours so they have some kind of average "normal" numbers to compare your results to.
-30°F and never rising above that is probably bad. Real world data shows operating temps above 110°F in the cold winter months even with a large plate cooler. The fluid path is through the 220°F radiator tank ATF coil before the AUX cooler so it rises fairly rapidly along with the engine temp. The AUX cooler is there to keep the temps below 180°F. My preference is closer to 160°F.
110-160°F will allow the ATF to flow the way it should without scorching the internals of the transmission and that seems to be the range people are seeing.
Water?
This isn't a motorcycle. The gearbox doesn't share the engine lube. It's separate so there's no H2O and partially or unburnt hydrocarbons from blowby gasses in your transmission that you need to boil off.
Condensation is unlikely to be a serious issue either. The factory cooler usually keeps the ATF far enough below the boiling point of water that if water was an issue it would be an issue with the factory oil cooler.
If you're that worried about it get four or five Blackstone reports and pay close attention to the wear metals and trapped water level in the fluid. UOA will tell you right away if there's an issue. Usually Blackstone has aggregated data from several similar vehicles using the same equipment as yours so they have some kind of average "normal" numbers to compare your results to.
Last edited by hatzie; 11-02-2018 at 09:46 AM.
11-04-2018, 08:25 PM
#305
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I installed one of these 40k Tru Cool units on my 2008 Suburban this weekend, which did not come with any cooler, other than the in-tank cooler in the radiator. I bought the OEM cooler and lines, plus the ead brackets and fittings. This was a huge job and took a while. Snaking through the new return line to the trans is no picnic due to so many things being in the way and the access on the trans to the line is also very tight, especially if you have big hands or arms (I don’t). The cooler bolted in easy enough with the brackets (and I recommend them), but a fair amount of trimming was needed on the plastic that surrounds the styrofoam in the bumper. Some of the foam also needed to be trimmed away to make room for the cooler cold line that hangs down into the area where the bumper foam would otherwise be. On the hot side of the cooler, it was a tight fit and I trimmed away as much of the straight tubing where the compression fitting goes as possible without compromising the seal of the fitting. I’ve done a lot of work on cars over the years (head/cam swaps, header installs, differential stuff, axles, etc.), and this job was a major pain to do. Glad it’s done!
11-04-2018, 08:28 PM
#306
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On the factory readout, or do you have an aftermarket gauge? I’m seeing 1-teens initially on the factory display and it’s not even that cold out (around 45-50). I’m planning to create a shield for a portion of the cooler when I don’t need it.
01-04-2019, 09:38 AM
#307
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For everyone looking for the EAD/Tru Cool Max install brackets, please see this thread: https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...rdware-508374/
The brackets have been approved for sale in the member made section!
The brackets have been approved for sale in the member made section!
does anyone have his info on how to contact or can let him know to check this forum?
01-06-2019, 03:41 PM
#309
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yeah I paypal'd you $75 bucks on Jan 4th, I'm Steven Bowen (raptorriderplay), Transaction ID 9HT6050800646360M. Do you think you ll be able to get me the kit by friday?
Last edited by Pasty T-Bag; 01-07-2019 at 06:43 AM.
05-22-2019, 10:49 AM
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I'm going to replace my factory trans cooler with a 40k, what is the brass compression fitting used on the passenger side line that I keep seeing in this thread? My Google-Fu is weak and all I can find is 3/8's to barb fittings. Anyone have a link to the proper 3/8ths to 3/8th's compression fitting so that I can rotate the hard line?
ETA- Nevermind, I found one at Home Depot. I was searching for transmission specific applications when I didn't need to.
ETA- Nevermind, I found one at Home Depot. I was searching for transmission specific applications when I didn't need to.
Last edited by RanchZ71; 05-22-2019 at 10:51 AM. Reason: Update