transgo kit newbee question
#1
i have read quite a few threads on this and i still have a couple of questions..
i purchased the hd-2 kit, alum 1-2 piston, billet forward piston, vette servo and billet 4th servo... as i was reading the directions... i see there are options ... this is my daily driver and i want something streetable...
1? 2nd acumalotor... is 2 spacers to firm?
2? grinding the manual valve... does this need to be professionally done or is
eyeball good enough?
3? selecting the accum spring red or white? wheres the piston number they are referring too?
4? drilling the seperator plate... 1-2 .082 for daily driving i would guess? that way i can always re drill if need more.
2-3 shift .093 for the same reasons above..
sorry for buggin u guys with stupid ****... but i am frikin lost here and dont wanna mess it up....
pretty much... have i bit off more than i can chew on this?
i purchased the hd-2 kit, alum 1-2 piston, billet forward piston, vette servo and billet 4th servo... as i was reading the directions... i see there are options ... this is my daily driver and i want something streetable...
1? 2nd acumalotor... is 2 spacers to firm?
2? grinding the manual valve... does this need to be professionally done or is
eyeball good enough?
3? selecting the accum spring red or white? wheres the piston number they are referring too?
4? drilling the seperator plate... 1-2 .082 for daily driving i would guess? that way i can always re drill if need more.
2-3 shift .093 for the same reasons above..
sorry for buggin u guys with stupid ****... but i am frikin lost here and dont wanna mess it up....
pretty much... have i bit off more than i can chew on this?
#2
If you have a stock converter, I would drill the 1-2 to .082 and 3-4 to .093 and only put 1 washer in. The number is located on the servo, but since you are putting covette servos in, then use the number 093, which refers to the vette servos. And you can grind the manual valve yourself, just make sure its straight and don't have any burrs leftover.
#4
Even though the directions say to grind the manual valve, it is really only needed in 93-95 valve bodies. The early valve body had an issue with an exhaust and the later casting were corrected. Basically the housing has an added hole and the valve was redesigned. Vince
#5
If you have a stock converter, I would drill the 1-2 to .082 and 3-4 to .093 and only put 1 washer in. The number is located on the servo, but since you are putting covette servos in, then use the number 093, which refers to the vette servos. And you can grind the manual valve yourself, just make sure its straight and don't have any burrs leftover.
I have the same kit, and I drilled my plate the same way. I would leave the washers in the baggie . . . I had two . . then one . . . then I took them out all together . . .
. . . it's a little too harsh with a stock stall, but if you have something higher than the stocker . . . meaning a 2600-2800 or higher . . . then use the washers.
you can also turn down the line pressure in the tuning, but that becomes more of a pain later on.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
5.3lSilverado
GM Engine & Exhaust Performance
25
Aug 29, 2016 12:48 AM
lycominghunter
GM Drivetrain & Suspension
4
Aug 15, 2015 12:26 PM
zaathur151
GM Drivetrain & Suspension
5
Jul 6, 2015 10:57 PM



