I can't believe there are more than one that will fit. But also, the T56 has 17 teeth on the reluctor wheel that the speed sensor reads off of an the autos have much more which will make it read really far off. I don't know of anyone that has swaped a 4wd truck yet so you may be hitting new ground here.

 

hmm well ive had the truck up to at least 80 and the speedo doesnt move. i have two plugs with a purp/blk wire and a grn/blk wire. and one plug with a grn wire and a yellow wire. ive tried them all, and i got nothing. is there anywhere online that has wire diagrams? the VSS plug is the one on the tailshaft area below the shifter and reverse wire plug correct?

my t56 has 4 plugs on it. one where the shifter is, one where the forward shifter would be, one on the pasenger side kinda in the middle, and the one on the driver's side at the very back, under the shifter....

any ideas?

 

yea.. im doin around 80 and my speedo says im doin 30-35. i can look what color the wires are this afternoon if noone else beats me to it

 

My speed spensor has purple w/ white stripe and light green w/ black stripe.

 

Would someone be willing to measure the distance between the inside holes of that 5-sp x-brace? I have a 2000 Tahoe and the 5-sp unit shown (lower) looks awfully close to what I would need.

Also, any after pics of the installation of the pedal and master cylinder and how the 2-1/2" hole thru the fire wall gets covered?

Thanks

PS - if I am going with truck hydraulic lines, is there a drill mod that we need/should do also?

 

you will have to take your line apart depending on what year line you have and drill the restrictor out of the braided line then heat shrink it back on the fitting. i did this an dhad no issues

 

I was under the impression that the truck hydraulics were rubber lines throughout and the F-body and vette units were braided, although individually too short. So if you drilled into a braided line, was that a truck line or an F-body/vette line?

Just ordered a brand new truck assembly so I can't confirm either way. I understand they come pre-bled and sealed, ready to connect to the slave. Would hate to have to break the seal if I didn't have to, but I will if it improves performance.

Thanks for the reply

 

dpends on what year master you have for a truck. the one i have uses a braided line along with a plastic line

 

I used the same factory braided line from a 99/2000 truck and it is pre bleed along with the a factory slave cylinder that is pre bleed. They work awesome and you do not have to touch a thing just plug and go.

 

bleeding isnt a big concern but if you go to do the "drill mod" then you will have to rebleed them