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Official A4 to M6 (T-56) Thread!

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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 05:59 PM
  #411  
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Originally Posted by badinfluencelsx
the car bearing is half the size. how does that fit in the hole twice its size for the truck bearing?
It goes further into the rear of the crank in a smaller hole.

What year crank do you have? Like Vanilla says there is a difference but I KNOW an 05 crank, which is the same as all the 4l60's won't work with a LS1 T56 and the Large ball bearing(~2" OD) pilot bearing.
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 06:53 PM
  #412  
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 08:02 PM
  #413  
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all this talk has got me nervous now

does anyone know is the 5.3 cranks are different than the others that do work?

-erik
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 12:05 AM
  #414  
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No, your 5.3 crank will be fine. No reports of there being a different 5.3 crank through out the years.

I'm glad this was just a pilot bearing issue and not the crank or input shaft.

The needle bearing pilot is definatley the way to go. It has much less friction and it wears less on the input shaft. Just put some lithium grease on it before you install the tranny.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 01:32 PM
  #415  
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yea i put the car pilot bearing in. im pretty sure that will fix the problem. sorry for the misunderstanding, but page 1 does say ask for the pilot bearing for your truck or fbody and the truck was a no go. thanks for the help guys
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 06:49 PM
  #416  
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I told you it would work.
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Old Aug 16, 2007 | 10:05 PM
  #417  
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ha yea.. i got the needle pilot and everything went pretty smooth. i had a half inch gap between the motor and trans but it tightened down. its pretty hard to get the holes to line up on that clutch pedal plate but besides that i dont see any more problems in the near future.
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 11:33 PM
  #418  
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alright. i finished my swap today, here are my notes.

'00 Z71 RCSB A4.

1. mounting the pedal was a bitch. i drilled through the intended holes, through the firewall and used long bolts and nuts to secure the pedal. i had to remove the brake booster to do this.
2. getting the bolts out of the ******* torque converter was a bitch. i had to use an air chisel on one of them, because the allen bolt stripped. who the **** came up with the ide to use allen bolts on the torque converter? id like to kill that sonofabitch.
3. i have a 4WD, so now that the transfer case is gone, there are a MILLION wires under my truck unused.
4. i left the little black box plugged in, and in park. i just ziptied it up out of the way untill i can get a tune to make it all nice. in the meantime. my fuel guage is whack, the cruise doesnt work, and it idles too low. however it seems to run normally otherwise.
5. i bought the clutch master new from GM, and it came full of fluid, and pre bled. i pluged it in to the tranny, did three manual pump and bleed cycles, and it worked perfectly. i also do not have the problem with the clutch releasing low. it releases right in the middle of the pedal stroke, so im not sure why so many people are calling for adjustable masters. im also using a stock, used f-body clutch. but my truck is a bone stock 4.8, so im hoping it will last me at least till the 370 goes in.
6. i used a '02 5 speed crossmember and it bolted right in, i guess i got a ringer cause my truck is a 4/00.
7. for now im using a stock f-body shifter, and it actually sits at the perfect height. i think im going to make a custom console that is a little lower around the shifter, instead of using the tahoe style console, and making the shifter all gay and long.

there you have it. the truck is alot more fun to drive now.
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Old Aug 21, 2007 | 04:33 AM
  #419  
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IMD I have a brace you could have used for the pedals to keep from having to drill thru the firewall like that. Just be careful to watch the flexing of the pedal assembly since it is only plastic.
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Old Aug 21, 2007 | 04:34 AM
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Glad to hear your install is complete and everything went back together okay for you. I know between the heat and laying on your back that you are glad it is almost over.
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