How to Drop your 4x4
Jul 27, 2015 | 02:50 PM
#81
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Okay, just installed Belltech 1-3" drop keys on my 99 RCSB 4x4 yesterday. Didn't take much to pre-load the bar to get the bolt/plate back in. And once the bolt/plate was back in and key tension tool was removed, the bar and key could be moved around. Not much pressure on the new keys. Installed the adjust bolt and cranked them to cross member level on both sides. Needless to say, I'm not impressed with the amount of drop. I'm sure once the bars/keys settle I'll be able to back off on the adjust bolt some.
Question is, with keys alone what are people seeing for ground to fender or hub to fender measurements?
Thanks!
Question is, with keys alone what are people seeing for ground to fender or hub to fender measurements?
Thanks!
Jul 27, 2015 | 02:57 PM
#82
Bone stock my ground to fender measurements were:
35.5" front
38.5" rear
I didn't do drop keys, but I did decrank the front bars some initially. I was unhappy with the ride and the minimal amount it lowered the front so I went to Belltech spindles and Belltech keys up front. Now I'm 32" front, 33" rear (rear has Belltech hangers/ shackles and block removed).
You might want to look at your jounce stops. If you didn't trim them a bit, they will prevent the truck from being lowered as much as it could, and the ride quality will suffer.
35.5" front
38.5" rear
I didn't do drop keys, but I did decrank the front bars some initially. I was unhappy with the ride and the minimal amount it lowered the front so I went to Belltech spindles and Belltech keys up front. Now I'm 32" front, 33" rear (rear has Belltech hangers/ shackles and block removed).
You might want to look at your jounce stops. If you didn't trim them a bit, they will prevent the truck from being lowered as much as it could, and the ride quality will suffer.
Jul 27, 2015 | 03:35 PM
#83
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Yeah, I had the stock keys cranked down prior to installing the belltech keys and the front was at 35.5". After the keys I'm only at 35" but the adjustment bolts are flush up inside the cross member. Like I said it took very little pre load with the tool to get the plates/bars back in with the new keys. And after they were installed there was play in the bars/keys without the adjustment bolts back in. How far can I back them back out, now that I've driven it for a few days. Hell, I was hoping for 33/34ish with the new keys.
Jul 27, 2015 | 03:54 PM
#84
You just need some preload on the bars, the bolts can go below flush with the crossmember that's how I had mine for a while until I did the Belltech keys (a few weeks after I put the spindles on). Sounds like for the drop you want, you'll need to do spindles and then maybe crank the truck up a 1/2" or so using the stock keys.
Jul 27, 2015 | 04:07 PM
#85
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 103
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Still think I should have gotten more than 1/2" difference between stock keys de-cranked and Belltech's 1-3" drop keys. Like I said, truck was at 35.5" w/stock keys de-cranked and now it's only at 35" with the Belltech's. I'll have to mess around with the adjustment bolts.
Jounce stops aren't touching the LCA's yet either. I can still see a sliver of daylight between them.....lol. I have new Jounce stops and Bumps stops ordered.
Jounce stops aren't touching the LCA's yet either. I can still see a sliver of daylight between them.....lol. I have new Jounce stops and Bumps stops ordered.
Jan 8, 2016 | 11:39 PM
#86
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Hay so bumping this thread I have a question I was reading through all your guys posts and man I gatta say some really nice trucks! So the truck I have now was actually hutch08s truck that I now own I am at a 2-4 right now blocks removed out of the back and some shackles in the front just drop shocks and some drop keys cranked all the way up. In the next month or to I'm looking at getting some hangers for the rear and I have some djm LCA and UCA and I'm wanting a 4-6 drop I'm curious how my allighnment is going to be if I put stock keys back in just drop the front with the control arms? Any input would be much appreciated !
Feb 5, 2016 | 04:30 PM
#87
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Bumping an old thread but here's what I did to mine it's lowered about 5.5/8
Front consists of: McGaughy's 2" Spindles, 3" keys decranked, and DJM UCA
Rear: Flip kit and 2" drop shackles. With 255/45/R20 tires up front It measures 28.5" from ground to Fender.
So far I've put about 3k miles this low, Only problems I've had Is that I had to remove the front bump stop and it'll still lay the cap on the LCA so I cut it off, and one of my Upper ball joints broke(that's when I went with DJM UCA)
I haven't taken a good look at my rear driveshaft about having to get shortened but I do get alot of wheel hop at WOT (guessing due to the crappy air shocks)
It gets the job done full of cargo with the airshock around 150psi.
Front consists of: McGaughy's 2" Spindles, 3" keys decranked, and DJM UCA
Rear: Flip kit and 2" drop shackles. With 255/45/R20 tires up front It measures 28.5" from ground to Fender.
So far I've put about 3k miles this low, Only problems I've had Is that I had to remove the front bump stop and it'll still lay the cap on the LCA so I cut it off, and one of my Upper ball joints broke(that's when I went with DJM UCA)
I haven't taken a good look at my rear driveshaft about having to get shortened but I do get alot of wheel hop at WOT (guessing due to the crappy air shocks)
It gets the job done full of cargo with the airshock around 150psi.
This is how my CV angles used to look before I went a full inch lower
Passenger side
Drivers side
[/QUOTE]How did you get the logos on your wheels red ? Is it those sticker things you can buy?!
