12sec.5.3

iTrader: (1)

I’ve been out of this for a few years and the truck has just been sitting up going to **** so last night after a few beers my buddy’s got me pumped to crank this project back up again. I know this topic has been beat to **** and I have searched a little but didn’t find quite what I was wanting. Does anyone have a parts list of the items I need to swap from the 65 to 80? I need to order a mount and dipstick/tube and a few other parts and pieces. The 80 I have has been sitting in my shed untouched since I swapped a set of wheels and tires for it a few years ago. Looks like I’ll be going with another Circle D converter I just wish there was a little cheaper route.

Also, I will be selling the built 65 and circle D 3600 (3C) if anyone may know someone who wants them. The converter might have 200 miles on it at most so someone will get a great deal on it. The trans needs a little attention but won’t take much. Was just slipping 2-3 shift, otherwise it is fully built front to back with the best in the business. The truck was just too heavy and it can’t hold the power of the new 370 set up.

madmann26

iTrader: (7)

1. Mount is the same

2. Crossmember (unless you cut/weld yours)

3. If you have a dished flexplate, leave it.

4. CircleD 06.06.07-2A - this is a 4l80 converter with 60/65/70 bolt pattern

5. Wiring (I chose to buy mine rather than repin the harness)

6. Rear cooling line - you will need to extend the bottom one from the 65e. I used a 3/8 brake line and compression fittings.

7. Shift cable bracket - if you have the factory 80e bracket, don't worry about this, else get Sonnax 3491301.

8. Driveshaft - Moog 447 joint and 3-3-4261X yoke (may need to shorten driveshaft or move it back...depends on if your 1pc or 2pc)

9. Dipstick - GM 15832205 (supposedly the dipstick is the same)

10. Transgo HD2 kit

11. 80e pan - Up to you. I changed mine out with a Dorman replacement that has a drain plug.

12. Change the front/real seals - good insurance.

13. Dipstick tube seal - GM 1259475 - good insurance

14. You may need to cut the passenger side ear of the 80e depending on header placement. I had to in order for the cooling lines to clear/not rub.

15. Segment swap

That's a rough list/to-do.

With the HD2 kit, it's highly recommended. Some notes on that:

1. Leave out the Reverse checkball
2. Leave out the 3rd gear checkball
3. Shift firmness is up to you and what you like/can stand.

Drspencer

iTrader: (1)

Honestly, I would save $100 and NOT do the HD2 if the thing is coming apart. Considering the list of things recommended to not do on the HD2, it just seems like a waste and you can drill your own separator plate.

Step 1: Drill the hole in the valve bodybetween the torque signal and "void" passages. I think this is onlyif using the Transgo pressure relief valve.
Step 2: Install blue springs on accumulator valve for firmness.
Step 3: Remove o-ring on shift solenoid feed filter, install new tapered plug witho-ring, install filter and orange spring, install new end plug. What does thisaccomplish? Is the filter not supposed to have an o-ring?
Step 6: Drill the separator plate for shift firmness. Can this be done with thestock plate?
Replace 3rd gear accumulator spring with white spring.
Discard reverse check ball in the case but keep the other 7? Is this necessarywith internal dual feed?
Step 7: Install new reverse boost valve and springs into pump. Is this where Iwould use the Sonnax boost valveinstead which is self regulating and eliminates the needs for steps 1, 4, and5?
Step 9: Install hollow sleeve on short end of 1-2 servo pin.
Step 10: Install new orange 1-2 accumulator spring.
Step 11: Change release springs in direct clutch. I heard this is good to do.
Step 12: Install thicker intermediate snap ring. No brainer.
Step 13: Enlarge hole to prevent pump front seal blowout. Seems like this isgood to do.
Step 14: Drill a 3/64 hole in the pump between the "line" passage andthe converter feed passage. Does this just boost pressure to the converter?Necessary? I read the PI recommends doing this with their converters.
So I'm thinking of skipping steps 1, 4, and 5 and doing the Sonnax valveinstead. Skip installing the 3-piece separator plate and using a stock or HD one instead.


Step 1: Omit
2: Sure, not super critical.
3: Not necessary but not detrimental. Some early 4L80Es would have runaway linepressure, blow the end out of the filter, and hydraulic pressure could causethe shifter to be moved to reverse.
4/5: NO! Causes pressure control issues and trans may burnup. We tear down manycores with this mod, the valve is stuck causing minimal pressure and burnup.
6: Yes, drill to desired specs. Stock plate is OK as long as it's not worn.
7: Use one of the other. The issue is you won't know what line pressure isuntil you check it with a given setup.
8: NO! POS bolt will break and strip on disassembly. Stock is fine.
9: I don't like this mod. It reduces servo travel but can cause drag.
10: Not mandatory but OK.
11: If you are in the unit, yes, and drill a .060" bleed hole in the drum,irregardless of transbrake or not.
12: Yep
13: Not necessary. I've only ever seen 3 front seals blow out. One was on ahigh mileage motorhome, 2 were on a Supra we have dealt with that had analignment issue with the Toyota-GM adapter.
14:Yes.

Leave the center seal off the drum.

MikeOD

I can confirm the dipstick itself is the same, I bought one and held it next to my original 4L60-E dipstick, no difference.

That said, I still followed Jake's advice and scribed a line on the dipstick that's even with the bottom of the case when the pan is removed. I fill to 1/4" above that, but I'm also running his D3 brake. I don't know if the fluid level advice is the same with/without the brake.

If you make your own cross member or cut/weld the stock one, the ATI deep 4L80E pan has a drain plug and adds a lot of fluid capacity, it's also still above the frame rails and my stock modified 4WD cross member. It has bumps built in to support the stock height filter, so the only different part is the pan itself.

12sec.5.3

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. I ordered another Circle D converter and Brian will use the 4L60 bolt pattern on the converter so it should fit right up. I will be bringing the transmission to a local guy tomorrow morning and just have it rebuilt to have peace of mind. I rather use the wiring harness instead of repinning so that's also on the way from Nelson Performance. I'm looking to order the slip yoke and u-joints if you have any part numbers. Thanks again fellas

12sec.5.3

iTrader: (1)

I managed to find the Moog 447 u-joint but the Spicer 3-3-4261X yoke is out of stock on amazon. Anyone know if the 3-3-5571X would work instead? There is a $50 difference in cost between them.

stroker87

iTrader: (6)

moogs website you can plug in the 2 sizes you need and it will give you a part number to buy that one or can cross reference it

you need to make sure you get the right lock clip location and cap size right, ask me how i know

darkirish63

iTrader: (5)

You're going to want to upgrade that flexplate if it wasn't on your list. The stock 60e plate will crack behind that 370. Worth the $150 while doing the swap.

MikeOD

Sonnax has a forged yoke too.

Agreed, I'd get a flex plate from Circle D with the converter.