How hard is it to install an Eaton LSD as opposed to the Powertrax no-slip locker????? And what is the eaton part # for my truck?

 

You need #19559-10. You also need the 3.06 bearings #LM-603049 bearing, and #LM-603012 race. 2 of each required. When you btake the existing unit out, don't mix up the shims, they should go back in the same places. Make sure to check backlash, too.

 

I cant help you on the ease of the install you will need tools the average joe doesnt have I do know it took a buddy of mine 4 hrs. The part# is 19559.

 

How well do the powertrax no slips do if you don't have that much HP, at the most i'll be pushing within the next year will be around 350 MAX.

 

They are alright units why not do it once and not have to mess with it again. Get an eaton and be done with it you wont be as happy with the powertrax I have an eaton and am very happy with it.

 

I can get the unit itself for around 400 bucks, how much does that other stuff cost for it and where can i get it at??? What's installation usually run on these, thanx.

 

Any drive-line & gear shops around you? Bearings are around 40 bucks I think. You will need a cover gasket and some Eaton LSD Additive, use mineral oil, and if you can't get the pattern right you may need to buy a shim kit.

 

Here's what I did, I had never seen a diff and after a lot of research it took me about a day. I tried to capsture all the area where I ran into problems. Let me know if you have any questions.

http://james.jaguar.net/agreif/eaton/eatontech.htm

Andrew

 

I used this as a guide too.
http://james.jaguar.net/agreif/eaton/eatontech.htm
Worked out well. If you have a dial indicator and all the other tools listed in this write up you should not have a problem with the Eaton. Having your truck on a lift is really nice too but not really nessasary.
The only thing that would make it take a little longer would the new carrier having to be shimmed differently than the stocker. I got lucky as many others here have too. I put the new unit in after transfering my ring gear to it, torqued it down , checked the backlash and it was right on the money with the stock shims!
Oh ya, be carefull after taking your c-clips out and pulling your axles.
Do not pull them out all the way, just pull them out far enough to clear the end bearings. You could tear or cut your axle seals with dirt or debris from the axles!!! If you do tear em make sure you replace them so they dony leak on ya.
Good luck man.