Axle R/R question
#1
My wife has a Y2k Suburban (some call it a "New body"), and Yesterday I found out I've got a left rear axle seal going bad. With summer Vacation coming up, I need to do something about this. It's a 5.3, 2wd, half-ton Suburban.
My question is, What do I have to do to get the left rear axle out of the Sub? Is there a C-clip inside the rear-end, or is the outer mounting what holds it in.
Any help you can offer is appreciated. The only estimate I have so far is
about $250.00, and I don't wanna pay it.
My question is, What do I have to do to get the left rear axle out of the Sub? Is there a C-clip inside the rear-end, or is the outer mounting what holds it in.
Any help you can offer is appreciated. The only estimate I have so far is
about $250.00, and I don't wanna pay it.
#2
How do I change this text
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Behind the TIG welder
There is a "c" clip holding the axle. (Semi-floating)
Seal should cost about 15 bucks.
Diff cover gasket about three bucks.
Diff oil about 25 bucks.
*If the brake pads are oil soaked, replace them.*
A quick guide........
Jack up and put on stands.
Block front wheels, release e-brake, put truck in neutral.
Drain rear-end oil.
Pull tire.
Remove caliper, (two 18mm head bolt).
Pull rotor, the E-brake is inside of the rotor and may need to be backed off. (I never have needed too back off)
Pull the diff cover.
Spin the carrier around until you can see the Pinion shaft lock bolt.
Remove lock bolt. (8mm head?)
Slide pinion shaft out of carrier.
Push the axle into the axle housing as far as possible.
Pull the C-lock out of the grove in the axle shaft. A magnet is very helpful.
Slide axle shaft out.
Remove and replace wheel seal.
I always squirt a little oil in axle tube for the wheel bearing and coat the lip of the seal with oil or grease.
Install Cleaned axle shaft.
Install c-lock in axle grove.
Push axle out with a pry bar until c-lock stops axle and is fully seated in carrier. (you might need to hold c-lock with the magnet while pushing axle until the c-lock is seated.)
Reinstall pinion shaft and lock. (I use a little lock-tite on pinion shaft lock bolt)
Install clean diff cover with new gasket.
Fill diff with oil.
Install Rotor.
Install Caliper with pads.
Install wheel.
Drive off stands. Ha, HA. J/K.
Seal should cost about 15 bucks.
Diff cover gasket about three bucks.
Diff oil about 25 bucks.
*If the brake pads are oil soaked, replace them.*
A quick guide........
Jack up and put on stands.
Block front wheels, release e-brake, put truck in neutral.
Drain rear-end oil.
Pull tire.
Remove caliper, (two 18mm head bolt).
Pull rotor, the E-brake is inside of the rotor and may need to be backed off. (I never have needed too back off)
Pull the diff cover.
Spin the carrier around until you can see the Pinion shaft lock bolt.
Remove lock bolt. (8mm head?)
Slide pinion shaft out of carrier.
Push the axle into the axle housing as far as possible.
Pull the C-lock out of the grove in the axle shaft. A magnet is very helpful.
Slide axle shaft out.
Remove and replace wheel seal.
I always squirt a little oil in axle tube for the wheel bearing and coat the lip of the seal with oil or grease.
Install Cleaned axle shaft.
Install c-lock in axle grove.
Push axle out with a pry bar until c-lock stops axle and is fully seated in carrier. (you might need to hold c-lock with the magnet while pushing axle until the c-lock is seated.)
Reinstall pinion shaft and lock. (I use a little lock-tite on pinion shaft lock bolt)
Install clean diff cover with new gasket.
Fill diff with oil.
Install Rotor.
Install Caliper with pads.
Install wheel.
Drive off stands. Ha, HA. J/K.
Last edited by Wilde Racing; Jul 2, 2006 at 02:08 AM.
#4
How do I change this text
iTrader: (26)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,294
Likes: 2
From: Behind the TIG welder
The axle will slide easy, you may need a pry bar to pull the seal.
The wheel bearing should stay in the axle tube.
Just be careful when you pry out the seal, make sure you are prying on the seal not the bearing.
The wheel bearing should stay in the axle tube.
Just be careful when you pry out the seal, make sure you are prying on the seal not the bearing.
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