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Hard to start

Old Jan 10, 2013 | 12:43 PM
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Default Hard to start

I have noticed that every since i have installed my walbro255 that my truck will only start on the second or third try to crank. If u hold it on the first try it will only turn over and over and not crank, second hit and she starts. What do u think could be the issue with this? I have heard of installing a check valve before the rails. Would that help this situation?

Current fuel setup is:
Walbro255
fast rails
42# injectors
aeromotive reg.
-6 line tied into the main feed and return behind tbss intake.

Wouldnt the regulator bleed off and pressure held by the check valve once it sets for a while of not running?

By the way it has always done this crank problem even with the stock rails and reg with the intank walbro255. Just gets fustrating when my girl decides to drive it every now and thin.

Thanks.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 04:11 PM
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I have a gauge for that
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You actually want the check valve as close to the pump as possible so basically the lines between the reg and valve stay full of fuel and the pump only has to pressurize the line between the pump and valve and not all the way to the regulator.

I thought most 255s had check valves...

Also for what its worth some fuel filters have check valves in them.
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 09:17 PM
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Ok here is what I'm reading. On a cold start first key cycle I'm getting 20psi on prime up.next key cycle and start it jumps to 60psi.

So I see where it acts like it has to fill up the main fuel line. Now when cruising I'm seeing fluctuations on occasion from 55-60 psi. But it usually maintains 60 psi and at WOT. My intank Walbro is also installed with the stock wiring harness. Would u suggest a upgraded racetronic harness? Also, would the regulator bleed off any left over fuel from the check valve?
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 09:47 PM
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The fuel pump seems to be fine then, you just need a checkvalve. The harness is not a bad mod, but its probably not mandatory.

The regulator will only bleed off enough pressure to keep it under the set pressure...for instance, usually you can push the shrader valve on the fuel rail days after being run and fuel will squirt out, meaning the pressure is maintained between the pump and regulator.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 08:55 AM
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ok gotcha. How would u think to install a check valve at the fuel pump bucket with using factory fuel line?
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 09:24 PM
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This happened after I changed fuel pumps to a NAPA pump, and still does it now that I'm running my cheapy 255Lph pump. With the 255 pump, I key on for 2 seconds, key off, and then start. Kind of a PITA, but I just got used to it, and it's not my DD anymore.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 09:39 PM
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well i have tried that with mine but it seems to not work with that all the time. Check valve will soon be installed and ill report back if it fixes this.
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 11:10 PM
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might be easier if you put it on the rubber hose in the fuel bucket....but that involves getting to the fuel bucket by dropping the tank or pulling the bed.
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 05:51 AM
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yeah thats a good thought. may try that.
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