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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 12:28 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Bumpers
My truck is push button and it disengages.. Even the ones in the floor are actually electronicly engaged and disengaged or so I've heard
The floor mounted ones electronically engage the front diff, but the tcase is manual still.

Once you get some more power running through your tcase it wont disengage. My cammed 5.3 would disengage but on the 150 shot it wouldnt, and it wouldnt with my 418.
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 12:35 AM
  #42  
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I can see that but I will see once I make some more power if I ever do lol this craps expensive but addicting
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 01:01 AM
  #43  
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I kinda figured it was a drivetrain bindup preventing the shift forks & collars from shifting to 2 wheel, but hoped there was something electronic blocking the shift.

Anybody run shorter slicks on the back of a 4x4 truck at the track? I know the autotrak t-cases always have some pressure on the t-case clutches, and I don't wanna smoke them 1/4 mile at a time. GM says anything more than 1/4" difference in rolling circumference will kill t-case clutch packs, even if driven in 2 wheel drive.
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 12:28 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by fastnblu



Erik, aren't u a turbo guy?
I have other vehicles! I've spoken with Brian before, and would happily magnacharge one of my other vehicles time, money and wife permitting
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 12:29 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by BlownChevy
This was supporting your quoted statement. What the red from that coating impeding your thinking?
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Old Mar 24, 2010 | 01:49 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
The floor mounted ones electronically engage the front diff, but the tcase is manual still.

Once you get some more power running through your tcase it wont disengage. My cammed 5.3 would disengage but on the 150 shot it wouldnt, and it wouldnt with my 418.
Mine disengages, still using the stock 1/2 ton push button auto t-case. I don't disengage it till 100 -110 km/h though.
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 03:06 PM
  #47  
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Default Little update

Ok I checked the boost the other day Im making about 4.5 lbs I had to re tighten the intake bolts the recomended torque was not enough I had a little leak, it seemed to add about a half pound of boost by tightening the bolts more. I think now my 3.7 in pulley is holding me back. The good news is a 3.2 and a crank pin kit is on the way. I have worked on the tune quite a bit it made worlds of diff. so Im a lot happier now. When I launch in 4x4 hi it pulls like a mule till about 65-70 top end seems to suffer in comparison to down low. I chirps all 4 just brake stalling to 1700 rpm I hope the pulley helps top end.
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 04:07 PM
  #48  
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Cool! Thanks for the update! I'll be interested in hearing your reports when you get the 3.2 on it!!
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 04:31 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
...I can actually 'feel' the extra strain(and hear it) on the drivetrain when WOT above 80 mph in 4x4. Also, when I ran in 2 wheel drive, and spun the rear tires to the 1/8th before catching traction, I only lost about .5 seconds, but my mph was the same. It definately pulls harder(noticably) in 2 wheel drive at higher speeds. If funding allows, I will try slicks and 2wd racing this summer.

I have the push-button. I never tried lifting. ...
Just curious, whatdaya run in the 1/4, Roger? 60' or any slips of your fastest run?

I heard GM came out w/. a special feature on Cobalt SS just for you. It's called no lift shift.

Originally Posted by TurboBerserker
I have other vehicles! I've spoken with Brian before, and would happily magnacharge one of my other vehicles time, money and wife permitting
Wife permitting.
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Old Mar 29, 2010 | 05:03 PM
  #50  
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I have put my truck on the scales, with 1/2 tank of gas, 5740 pounds. It's heavy.
14.37 @ 90.52 with a 2.07 60 ft.
This was at around 4-5 psi boost, with stock cam and a locally built converter. I haven't been back to the track since the last round of mods.

Last edited by AKlowriderZ71; Apr 2, 2010 at 01:01 PM.
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