Looking for missing power after 122HH upgrade...
#63
Ahhhhh shooooot. I used to think making a few extra hp wasn't rocket science. Well...uh...hmmmm....maybe it is. A few degrees left or right, up or down....a few extra psi in CR or boost here or there. A bit, a byte, a gig, a nano too many or not enough. Some catch me fuq me resistor diode with reverse polarity installed with the absolute dead nuts correst resistance and lubed with astro glide makes or costs 100 rwhp. Damn. I used to be able to make a small block chevy sing a sweet song. I give up on this new stuff.
#64
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From: Far East Bay - Norcal
Ahhhhh shooooot. I used to think making a few extra hp wasn't rocket science. Well...uh...hmmmm....maybe it is. A few degrees left or right, up or down....a few extra psi in CR or boost here or there. A bit, a byte, a gig, a nano too many or not enough. Some catch me fuq me resistor diode with reverse polarity installed with the absolute dead nuts correst resistance and lubed with astro glide makes or costs 100 rwhp. Damn. I used to be able to make a small block chevy sing a sweet song. I give up on this new stuff.
#65
Hope I didn't get this thread off point. Just a little frustrated with the complexity (and my ignorance) of these computer controlled motors. The reverse side tells me that it would difficult to get a gen. I carbed motor to 480 hp at the wheels with a stable idle and reasonable fuel eco. Sometimes I just need to bitch. Please excuse me.
#68
That's a bit of a different order in making power than I've always used. You would first decide on how fast you want to go (dyno numbers don't matter unless that's your only goal). Next decide on how many cubic inches you intend to use. Next pick your boost level required to make the power desired to run the number you are looking to get with that cubic inch and your drivability. Don't pick a boost level based on what's cool or how high you want to see the gauge go to. If you had a 5.3L on 8psi of boost, your new 6.7L doesn't need to make 15psi to make you happy... Boost level is also going to be different for drivability if you are turbo or supercharger. A high boost supercharger will be in power enrichment constantly when driving on the street. A high boost turbo will have plenty of lag, but won't have the issue as bad with being in power enrichment as often. From there, pick your boost maker/compressor based on the size of unit required to stay in it's efficiency range at the desired airflow/boost level. After you pick your unit, select your compression ratio. Higher compression for lower boost levels and better drivability. Higher compression will bring a turbo into boost quicker and keep a supercharger out of boost longer (less throttle to move the truck means less power enrichment time required). If your stuck to using one compressor than your compression needs to match the efficiency range of that unit such as with a Radix style. At 8-10psi they are in their sweet spot and tend to run stronger with more compression. Race setups are great with low compression and high boost. Street setups are better with lower boost and higher compression. Timing is certainly not something I'd put ahead of chosing compression as it is a variable that is easily changed with the touch of the laptop, grades of fuel, meth injection, temperatures including IAT's, etc. Cam timing is a well researched item and yet I often see setups going very fast with what 50 others would think is the wrong cam for the setup. I see people spend forever picking a cam all the while someone else picked an off the shelf grind and ends up .2-.3 faster than them with about the same mods. Pick the duration by the rpm you need to run to make your desired power level, lift by head flow numbers, then go for LSA, ICL, ETC.
We dyno'd a truck friday that made 516RWHP with around 9psi (has no gauge, but last time we put a gauge on it that's what it made). That is an LQ9 with LS6 heads and LS6 cam, shorty headers, full 2 1/2" exhaust with cats, Volant intake, and Rotrex. It also has heavy 20" wheels and 305/50R20's. No special picked cam, standard heads, no meth, pump gas, etc. This truck has even trapped 117mph in this form.
We dyno'd a truck friday that made 516RWHP with around 9psi (has no gauge, but last time we put a gauge on it that's what it made). That is an LQ9 with LS6 heads and LS6 cam, shorty headers, full 2 1/2" exhaust with cats, Volant intake, and Rotrex. It also has heavy 20" wheels and 305/50R20's. No special picked cam, standard heads, no meth, pump gas, etc. This truck has even trapped 117mph in this form.
#69
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From: Far East Bay - Norcal
Hope I didn't get this thread off point. Just a little frustrated with the complexity (and my ignorance) of these computer controlled motors. The reverse side tells me that it would difficult to get a gen. I carbed motor to 480 hp at the wheels with a stable idle and reasonable fuel eco. Sometimes I just need to bitch. Please excuse me.
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