They spin at 80k plus, any chunks or metal debris will blow that thing apart, no matter what its made of. the exhaust side are usually some type of stainless or high temp alloy. I dont think I'd want one that had been welded, it may be stressed beyond repair. Maybe they could magnaflux it after welding and resurfacing???
Check for micro-cracks??

 

holy **** Chris, sorry to hear that. I guess bigger and better one now right? haha well either way lets get her back together!

 

o and if I remember right u cant rebuild a turbo after the blades have contacted the walls. Like Dustin said, they're fusion or friction welded together and u cant find anyone ballsy enough to take that risk. Thats if I recall right. I dont think I'd take that chance eitehr with how fast those bastards spin

 

The only way that I would have this turbo repaired is if they can put a new shaft and turbine wheel on it. I don't want this one "fixed".

I'm hoping that I can just get a new one, then send this one back to Precision for repair, then sell it. New one will likely have a 4" v-band outlet, which means that I'll have to modify my downpipe since it's currently set up for a 3". I believe the compressor also has a 4" outlet, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

New turbo should be pretty close to the same power capability as the current one, but should spool faster since it's ball bearing and a *slightly* smaller wheel.

 

But the exhaust housing is larger so that may counteract the spooling quicker. I think you need a larger housing for your cubes though. The small housing may have created the problem in the first place.

 

Yeah it may have. The turbo I'm looking at now is a GT4202R-757707-2.

Compressor
74.3mm inducer, 102.3mm exducer
53 trim
0.6 a/r

Turbine
82.0mm wheel
84 trim
1.15 a/r


Slightly larger turbine wheel, larger a/r. I guess I was looking at the wrong wheel size when I said the new one would be smaller.

 

For reference. Curtd, with the 383 I built has a gt42 with a 1.28 A/R exhaust.

Look up his threads if you don't know his truck.

 

Excessive EGT's(trying to play king of the highway for example). I have melted a few on my old Dmax, and they looked just like that. I spit chunks of piston, rings, rod, and block through my turbo, and it doesn't look like that. Still looks good. My guess it that when you fried your engine you melted the turbo too.

 

Hmm...I guess I did a good number on my truck. I'll have to remember not to do that again

I'm looking into a gauge sender setup through PLX that will allow me to condense all of the different things I monitor externally from the PCM into three gauges, all of which also have analog outputs that I can monitor with EFILive. I think it's probably necessary for me to do this, lol. I have no idea what my EGT's were when screwing around last time because I was watching EFILive on my laptop for AFR and knock, not my fuel pressure or EGT gauge.

Beyond the AFR that I already monitor in EFILive, it will also get me:

Oil temp
Water temp for the #7 water jacket
Fuel pressure
EGT

 

So maybe that old #7 piston got a little hot, contributing the the engine melt down? If this is a sign of the aftermath?? Wasn't your truck leaking oil into the turbine housing wayyyy back before this fisrt engine build?

All this makes me wonder if I should just put my truck back to NA and forget boost forever. Even when you think things are ok and truned for daily driving **** still happens like all your issues.
Is there a perfect set up out ther for say 600-700hp thats capable of being daily driven, hard when desired???
Enough blabbin, I'm drunk.