The drill is pictured in one shot. It's not an angle drill. I just bought the smallest air drill, think at Lowes, that I could find. I don't know of anybody else making the pin kit.

 

Thanks, its sunday so right now this time Im pretty trashed didnt even see the drill going back to check...

 

So I can see it would help with lining it up. But Is that the reason why you would want to put pins in?

 

Pins keep the balancer from spining on the crank.

 

I finely got around to pinning my crank over the weekend and the kit I got from Joe at Left Coast came with an ARP crank bolt(nice). ARP specs state to use their molly lube and torque to 235 lb.ft.. Since I didn't have a torque angle gauge I was happy to get a recommended torque # for install making it even easier for me. It IS reusable and it sure looks like a step up from the stock bolt and washer. Install was fairly easy and I had plenty of room to work after removing the elec. fans. I use the Kent Moore flywheel holding tool and find this tool to be invaluable as it only takes 10 min. to remove the starter and install in its place. This makes bolt removal and reinstall a snap.
ARP crank bolt # is 234-2503 and it comes with a 1 1/16" 12 pt.head.
Just adding my 2$ and hope it can make this install easier for another member.

 

Just curious, what is the alternative to the Kent Moore tool? Can we get a pic of it?

 

when using a supercharger a belt runs from the crank to all the accessories and to the supercharger... well people are having problems with the crank pulley spinning on the crank.. so this fixes the problem.. the stock pulley and crank have no pen or key from the factory.. so the only thing keeping it from spinning is the friction from it being pressed on the shaft. which is fine untill you put a high load on it like a supercharger..

 

I first bought the blue point tool in the pictures below. It wasn't cheap. It works but not well and you basically have to have some one hold it. I don't recommend it at all. Ive read others using chains, screwdrivers, wrenches and things pryed somewhere in the pulley or flexplate to lock an engine. I personally bent a 1/2" drive extension double once trying to torque the pulley bolt.

I had also read that you can get a crank bolt torqued properly in a manual transmission car. I've pinned a crank on a GTO with a manual and wound up using the kent moore tool on it even. Not saying I couldn't have gotten the bolt torqued properly but it wasn't going well.

If you are torquing the crank bolt in an LS1 style engine I call the Kent Moore tool a must. It works perfectly. You remove the starter. Put it in place bolt it down with the starter bolts and do what you need to do.

 

What p/n is that tool? j-44214 ?

 

J-42386-A is cast in mine.