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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 10:01 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by moregrip
manually activated efans are a big help because you can pull air through the heat exchanger when you want. A full gulp of cool fresh air is another important factor.
What IAT's are you seeing at the top end of the 1/4 mile moregrip?

How about you parish, your IAt's?

Anyone with a whipple log IAT's?

Vortech?

ATI?
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 10:09 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by Fandango
What IAT's are you seeing at the top end of the 1/4 mile moregrip?

How about you parish, your IAt's?

Anyone with a whipple log IAT's?

Vortech?

ATI?
140-150 in 80-100deg weather
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 10:12 PM
  #113  
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i dont know with the pt88, been spraying meth and that effects the readings.

with the t76 at 16psi i was around 150deg
at 18psi i was pushing 200deg, the turbo was spent
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Old Oct 4, 2005 | 11:11 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by DrX
Let's continue on with the heat issue. As you mentioned there are several sources of heat including compression(and where it takes place), friction. recycling(roots), heat soak, etc.

We can discuss the compression end of it more but after doing some logging today I was reminded that my IATs would go up around 10*C during a short WOT run but they would increase 10-20* more while shutdown or idling. So unless you keep moving, you are starting out in the hole for the next run. Are some FI systems more affected by heat soak than others? What can we do to mitigate this factor?
I know with my ATI it would cool down while idling after beating on it. It was moving uncompressed air through it and the intercooler while it was idling which helped. Since it is near the engine the head unit would still be warm but not completely hot like after a few boost runs. The upgraded intercooler I had always stayed cool on the output side under boost, but the stock ATI unit would be hot. I added a air scoop also which helps while moving, and heat wasnt ever an issue while idling. I would say that the remote mount units like centrifugals would have the advantage at idle or cruising since they dont conduct heat from the engine just create their own while under boost. That and the fact that they are smaller since they are not positive displacement gives them less metal to get heat soaked which means they can also cool down easier.
The benefit to the systems that have the air-to-water system, whether a Radix or Vortech, is that you can run the fluid pump and an electric fan while idling which I see as a huge advantage.
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 11:17 AM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by mzoomora
Lets talk turbo-
They make tons of power, more than any other form of FI- that is a point that is hard to argue. Even more than the system I chose.
What do you turbo guys think are the best places to mod after doing a turbo kit, like a STS or Livernois? On a front mount kit how much do you think the factory cat-back would hold you back? How about factory manifolds for a STS? Where do you think money is best spent on mods for a turbo'ed truck? It would seem to me that the extra air volume would almost dictate a better exhaust system. But, I thought I read that STS says that there system doesnt "require" exhaust mods for signifigant extra gains?
I want to talk turbo, mainly because I am sick of hearing about the Radix. This is supposed to be about all FI, isnt it? You know what, it is a great system. But, it is what it is- a complete system with OE quality the develops good power gains. It is not a very expandable system or the right system to choose for BIG power. Heat does affect al systems, but the Radix is like a huge heat sink. It is attached to the hottest part of the engine, the heads. Also, although their intercooler system is compact and well desgined for street use it is not as easy to expand as a centrifugal or turbo. I would bet that the Radix has the most trouble controlling IAT's, especially over a series of runs. You know what, I had IAT problems with my D1. So I spent a LITTLE money on an eBay intercooler and saw a huge difference in power on back-to-back runs. Plus I didnt even have to have any new pipes or anything made. Somebody on here said they saw nearly 100hp after upgrading the intercooler on their ATI on the top end, if you are reading this please post.
Who here has had IAT problems with their FI? What did you do and did it solve your problem? I know nitrous is a quick fix, as is water/meth, but did anybody see a big drop in IAT's from an intercooler upgrade?

Inquiring minds want to know.
I saw a 110 fwhp increase at 6000 rpm when I upgraded my ATI intercooler to a bigger griffin unit. That got me about 6/10ths and 6mph in the 1/4. IMO, a good intercooler is the most important part of your FI system.
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 02:09 PM
  #116  
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I know some run dual power adders, ie - FI and Nitrous. Does anyone have any info on which type of FI works best with nitrous? What are the typical limits (how much)? I know a lot of this depends on your setup and if your motor is built, etc. I just want to know what has been done and what hasn't.
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 07:58 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by sleek silverado
I know some run dual power adders, ie - FI and Nitrous. Does anyone have any info on which type of FI works best with nitrous? What are the typical limits (how much)? I know a lot of this depends on your setup and if your motor is built, etc. I just want to know what has been done and what hasn't.
I do not know if there is a better(per say) FI setup for nitrous. The idea behind nitrous with FI is to decrease the temp of the incoming charge air and/or to spool up the turbo by adding more mass flow into the inlet tract. Lots of guys that run older roots style superchargers will plumb in a small shot to use as an cooling effect.
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 04:40 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by parish8
i have no idea what you just said , based on the ve chart i am prety sure the ve will fall off above 14,000rpm. any compresor is going to have a sweet spot and it looks like 14,000rpm is the sweet spot. above this point you will start to see diminishing returns. that isn't saying it wont make more power as you spin it past 14,000rpm but the gains per rpm increase will be less and less as the rpms go up.

This is absolutely true as anyone who has "pulleyed down" with the radix sees less boost gain with each step after a point. I felt stupid for doing a 2.9 pulley after a 3.0 because the gain wasn't that much. The 3.0 to 2.75 would have been a better step on a 6 liter.
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Old Oct 11, 2005 | 04:58 PM
  #119  
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Not to be "all about the Radix" but airflow is a huge factoron cool down. With a 2.75 pulley it is common for me to see peak IAT's at the end of a run of up to 180 degrees running Radix only. It cools down to about 130 on the return road but it takes a drive of about 5 minutes at 20-40 mph to cool down to 100-110 IAT's. My track is pretty cool in that I can drive out the gate and down the road and come right back in and hot lap on T&T nights. Granted the H2 engine bay is an oven... but the principle applies to all... fresh air in the intake and over the intercooler and engine bay is very important.
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Old Oct 14, 2005 | 08:37 PM
  #120  
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Has anyone over spun a Radix and broken it? If so, what were they spinning it to?
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