Anyone want to school me on building a hotside?
Mar 28, 2013 | 12:20 PM
#1
Anyone want to school me on building a hotside?
Sorry for shotty pics. Anyways, you get where I'm going.
Will the flanges work?
I have a bunch of questions. Just looking to take in peoples opinions on how to get everything right.
1. Flanges stated above. Will they work?
2. I plan on running the cross over in front of the engine and putting a v band in the middle of the cross over. Will I also need a flex pipe around the same area?
3. For a budget build, is stainless piping worth it? What advantages besides longevity does it have? The same goes with mig vs tig welding.
4. Any fabrication tips to make everything go smoother for a first timer?
Will the flanges work?
I have a bunch of questions. Just looking to take in peoples opinions on how to get everything right.
1. Flanges stated above. Will they work?
2. I plan on running the cross over in front of the engine and putting a v band in the middle of the cross over. Will I also need a flex pipe around the same area?
3. For a budget build, is stainless piping worth it? What advantages besides longevity does it have? The same goes with mig vs tig welding.
4. Any fabrication tips to make everything go smoother for a first timer?
Mar 28, 2013 | 02:23 PM
#2
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: St Petersburg, FL
1. Flanges stated above. Will they work?
Yes, they will work. v-band is better, but $50/set so..... vbands don't have gaskets that can blow out.
2. I plan on running the cross over in front of the engine and putting a v band in the middle of the cross over. Will I also need a flex pipe around the same area?
you might consider running the cross over out back under the engine and back up like most. keeps hot parts away from things that don't like heat. Do you even have room up front? keep your flex close to the manifold on the begining of the run. that way if you warp a little from welding, you can use the flex advantage at the connection because it'll be back at the fulcrum.
3. For a budget build, is stainless piping worth it? What advantages besides longevity does it have? The same goes with mig vs tig welding.
i never use anything but stainless. there will be people that will argue mild is better. I just haven't seen it. SS will allow more movement when its hot, keeps it from cracking. mild seems to crack in about half the time. I tig everything, but thats what i prefer. Mig is sloppy to me, but it would depend on who you talk to. i would say whatever type you are better at. if you're not good at either, i would just tack everythign up and take it to a welding shop. pay some dude $20 to do it on his lunch break.
4. Any fabrication tips to make everything go smoother for a first timer?
NO GAPS!! especially on the cross over. you might have a .010" gap on one side after taking. you'll weld it up and the other side will move .25". I typically like to fab, tack and weld one piece at a time. that way the only movement is on the last joint and it will move a little. also might be a good time to buy a belt sander so you can debur and flatten pipe ends. that'll make youre life super easy. I build with a 4.5 grinder with cut off wheels, 6x48 belt sander (4x36 is fine) and a die grinder for deburring the inside. Chop saws are helpful too. harbor freight sanders are totally fine. Put a little investment in the belts though. cheapies don't last for very long, especiall on SS.
Yes, they will work. v-band is better, but $50/set so..... vbands don't have gaskets that can blow out.
2. I plan on running the cross over in front of the engine and putting a v band in the middle of the cross over. Will I also need a flex pipe around the same area?
you might consider running the cross over out back under the engine and back up like most. keeps hot parts away from things that don't like heat. Do you even have room up front? keep your flex close to the manifold on the begining of the run. that way if you warp a little from welding, you can use the flex advantage at the connection because it'll be back at the fulcrum.
3. For a budget build, is stainless piping worth it? What advantages besides longevity does it have? The same goes with mig vs tig welding.
i never use anything but stainless. there will be people that will argue mild is better. I just haven't seen it. SS will allow more movement when its hot, keeps it from cracking. mild seems to crack in about half the time. I tig everything, but thats what i prefer. Mig is sloppy to me, but it would depend on who you talk to. i would say whatever type you are better at. if you're not good at either, i would just tack everythign up and take it to a welding shop. pay some dude $20 to do it on his lunch break.
4. Any fabrication tips to make everything go smoother for a first timer?
NO GAPS!! especially on the cross over. you might have a .010" gap on one side after taking. you'll weld it up and the other side will move .25". I typically like to fab, tack and weld one piece at a time. that way the only movement is on the last joint and it will move a little. also might be a good time to buy a belt sander so you can debur and flatten pipe ends. that'll make youre life super easy. I build with a 4.5 grinder with cut off wheels, 6x48 belt sander (4x36 is fine) and a die grinder for deburring the inside. Chop saws are helpful too. harbor freight sanders are totally fine. Put a little investment in the belts though. cheapies don't last for very long, especiall on SS.
Last edited by boostedsl2; Mar 28, 2013 at 02:29 PM.
Mar 28, 2013 | 02:52 PM
#3
1. Flanges stated above. Will they work?
Yes, they will work. v-band is better, but $50/set so..... vbands don't have gaskets that can blow out.
2. I plan on running the cross over in front of the engine and putting a v band in the middle of the cross over. Will I also need a flex pipe around the same area?
you might consider running the cross over out back under the engine and back up like most. keeps hot parts away from things that don't like heat. Do you even have room up front? keep your flex close to the manifold on the begining of the run. that way if you warp a little from welding, you can use the flex advantage at the connection because it'll be back at the fulcrum.
3. For a budget build, is stainless piping worth it? What advantages besides longevity does it have? The same goes with mig vs tig welding.
i never use anything but stainless. there will be people that will argue mild is better. I just haven't seen it. SS will allow more movement when its hot, keeps it from cracking. mild seems to crack in about half the time. I tig everything, but thats what i prefer. Mig is sloppy to me, but it would depend on who you talk to. i would say whatever type you are better at. if you're not good at either, i would just tack everythign up and take it to a welding shop. pay some dude $20 to do it on his lunch break.
4. Any fabrication tips to make everything go smoother for a first timer?
NO GAPS!! especially on the cross over. you might have a .010" gap on one side after taking. you'll weld it up and the other side will move .25". I typically like to fab, tack and weld one piece at a time. that way the only movement is on the last joint and it will move a little. also might be a good time to buy a belt sander so you can debur and flatten pipe ends. that'll make youre life super easy. I build with a 4.5 grinder with cut off wheels, 6x48 belt sander (4x36 is fine) and a die grinder for deburring the inside. Chop saws are helpful too. harbor freight sanders are totally fine. Put a little investment in the belts though. cheapies don't last for very long, especiall on SS.
Yes, they will work. v-band is better, but $50/set so..... vbands don't have gaskets that can blow out.
2. I plan on running the cross over in front of the engine and putting a v band in the middle of the cross over. Will I also need a flex pipe around the same area?
you might consider running the cross over out back under the engine and back up like most. keeps hot parts away from things that don't like heat. Do you even have room up front? keep your flex close to the manifold on the begining of the run. that way if you warp a little from welding, you can use the flex advantage at the connection because it'll be back at the fulcrum.
3. For a budget build, is stainless piping worth it? What advantages besides longevity does it have? The same goes with mig vs tig welding.
i never use anything but stainless. there will be people that will argue mild is better. I just haven't seen it. SS will allow more movement when its hot, keeps it from cracking. mild seems to crack in about half the time. I tig everything, but thats what i prefer. Mig is sloppy to me, but it would depend on who you talk to. i would say whatever type you are better at. if you're not good at either, i would just tack everythign up and take it to a welding shop. pay some dude $20 to do it on his lunch break.
4. Any fabrication tips to make everything go smoother for a first timer?
NO GAPS!! especially on the cross over. you might have a .010" gap on one side after taking. you'll weld it up and the other side will move .25". I typically like to fab, tack and weld one piece at a time. that way the only movement is on the last joint and it will move a little. also might be a good time to buy a belt sander so you can debur and flatten pipe ends. that'll make youre life super easy. I build with a 4.5 grinder with cut off wheels, 6x48 belt sander (4x36 is fine) and a die grinder for deburring the inside. Chop saws are helpful too. harbor freight sanders are totally fine. Put a little investment in the belts though. cheapies don't last for very long, especiall on SS.
I would love to run the crossover under the truck. I see 2 limitations though. My truck is lowered 5/7, and I'm not confident enough to build a log manifold yet. I'm definitely open to other hotpipe routing idea. This just seemed the easiest.
Its interesting that you do most of the cutting with a 4.5 grinder, great info on the Fab part of my question.
Mar 28, 2013 | 03:18 PM
#4
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: St Petersburg, FL
That's for the good information. I have been planning on routing the hot pipes similar to this:
I would love to run the crossover under the truck. I see 2 limitations though. My truck is lowered 5/7, and I'm not confident enough to build a log manifold yet. I'm definitely open to other hotpipe routing idea. This just seemed the easiest.
Its interesting that you do most of the cutting with a 4.5 grinder, great info on the Fab part of my question.
I would love to run the crossover under the truck. I see 2 limitations though. My truck is lowered 5/7, and I'm not confident enough to build a log manifold yet. I'm definitely open to other hotpipe routing idea. This just seemed the easiest.
Its interesting that you do most of the cutting with a 4.5 grinder, great info on the Fab part of my question.
band saw is too slow, chop saw limits cuts. i always end up spending more time screwing around hold the piece with both, then just using a angle grinder. for smaller pieces i use a vice grips on the piece i'm cutting so you can actually get some leverage. angle grinders can be pretty dangerous if you're not careful. also, buy the 10 packs of cut off wheels at harbor freight. they last just as long as the dewalts and cost $0.90/each. you'll got through probably 2 packs.
if you have a belt sander you don't have to have a super straight cut. thats what the belt is for after you make the cut. even band and chop saw cuts aren't usually straight.
Mar 28, 2013 | 03:26 PM
#5
i've got a 4/6 and i'm not seeing any issues. it'll tuck up under the pan by the bell housing. you don't need to build a log. keep your passenger side facing forward and merge in the driver side after your passenger flange before the turbo. flip your driver side manifold like it is factory, down under over and up.
band saw is too slow, chop saw limits cuts. i always end up spending more time screwing around hold the piece with both, then just using a angle grinder. for smaller pieces i use a vice grips on the piece i'm cutting so you can actually get some leverage. angle grinders can be pretty dangerous if you're not careful. also, buy the 10 packs of cut off wheels at harbor freight. they last just as long as the dewalts and cost $0.90/each. you'll got through probably 2 packs.
if you have a belt sander you don't have to have a super straight cut. thats what the belt is for after you make the cut. even band and chop saw cuts aren't usually straight.
band saw is too slow, chop saw limits cuts. i always end up spending more time screwing around hold the piece with both, then just using a angle grinder. for smaller pieces i use a vice grips on the piece i'm cutting so you can actually get some leverage. angle grinders can be pretty dangerous if you're not careful. also, buy the 10 packs of cut off wheels at harbor freight. they last just as long as the dewalts and cost $0.90/each. you'll got through probably 2 packs.
if you have a belt sander you don't have to have a super straight cut. thats what the belt is for after you make the cut. even band and chop saw cuts aren't usually straight.
I hear you on the chop saw. I despise those damn things. They always flare out at the bottom for me. I've got access to a band saw, but don't really use it much.
I own this book, it's great.
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Mar 29, 2013 | 06:46 PM
#8
Downloaded the PDF a few days ago and have been reading it. I feel like I am confident in understand how a system works, but want more info on the Fab work, routing, and placement of the turbo. I'm probably over thinking it.
Anyone else have comments or opinions?
Anyone else have comments or opinions?
Apr 2, 2013 | 07:05 PM
#10
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,118
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From: slidell, LA
my official build thread
Go through that thread. That is my build thread and I did a setup similar to what you are doing. Also the Corky Bell book is GREAT! I went with 2.5" crossover but knowing what I know now I would prolly do 2.25" if I did it again.
Go through that thread. That is my build thread and I did a setup similar to what you are doing. Also the Corky Bell book is GREAT! I went with 2.5" crossover but knowing what I know now I would prolly do 2.25" if I did it again.