Ok I have an 03 chevy 6.0l lq4 and it's obviously the 6 rib belt for engine and accessories. vortech v-2 I got for free it has an 8 rib 3.3in pully on it... I believe the SC itself is slightly undersized for my application (not going to the track just looking for more torque n horses ~100-150) but I was looking into the crank pullys with the 6 rib and oversized 8 rib pully so I could run 2 belts and get the SC spinning faster sooner for better bottom end. i think they run about $300. So id have 1 belt for the stock engine accessories and 1 8 rib belt for the SC. I know I will have to pin the crank... just wondering if this would be better than buying all 8 rib pullys +$1000. Or would I be fine with just running a HD 6 rib belt on the 8 rib SC pully? this is my first build any help or info is appreciated.

 

You're probably fine with the 6 rib. Does the SC head line up with the stock truck pulleys then?

You would have to space the SC farther out to run it's own dedicated drive, which would probably get complicated.

I'm planning to do an 8 rib setup for my LSA supercharger but I haven't got to the mockup phase yet. I found 8 rib pulleys for the alternator/power steering pump and if I use an OEM LSA balancer it should have the 8/10 rib portion of the balancer in line with stock truck accessories but I haven't physically verified that yet. Then you would need an 8 rib tensioner and possibly some idler pulleys. That all adds up pretty quick, but I should be way less than $1000 into my accessory drive. Dirty Dingo makes the alt/power steering pulleys for a good price. LSA balancer can be found fairly cheap, especially if you watch for used.

What did those V2 kits come from the factory with then?

 

So I have yet to buy a bracket for it. I have a buddy that has access to a cnc machine he can make it or ebay makes a bracket for under $200 that I can make spacers for. The SC is for a fox body mustang 5.0l.

 

I'd like to take credit for "visioneering" this concept of using the LSA lower as a cheap alternative to 8 ribbing a truck

No idea if that's accurate, but I know damn well I am the first to post pics about it on this forum

My whole build started life because I had an LSA lower I paid $40 for and found a 3.8" ProCharger pulley in 8 rib on eBay for something dumb, like $20. So I said "F-it, we doin it!"

All in I am less than $300 into my 8 rib setup, but I have been building it since 2020 and I am a machinist myself, so modifying the blower idlers and the bracket was easy stuff for me. The single most expensive piece of my kit was having my aluminum pulleys hard anodized

1) LSA lower. I found that you CANNOT seat the lower all the way on the crank snout, it will not line up. I had to pull it out ~.125" and put a washer behind the bolt to torque it down. 250ft/lbs for ARP bolt, don't forget to drill the crank and damper to stop the pulley from spinning

2) Dirty Dingo makes the 8 rib pulleys. I had mine hard anodized, they ship raw Alt Pulley PS Pulley

3) @Atomic Performance tensioner mount. I had mine powdercoated "Porsche Silver" Mount

4) Gates 38518 tensioner. Available cheaper than this:
5) Belt. I ended up with a K81092. Your results WILL vary
5A) Found out that with a very careful install procedure the Gate "K040363SF" stretch belt fits on the 6 rib side of the pulley to drive the AC! So thats cool, you're welcome aha

 

@arthursc2 Did you post this somewhere before? I've looked for this kind of info for a while. Definitely going to help with my mockup, Thanks

 

This is my first time posting any of this. I just finished the install maybe 3-4wks ago. You can see my belt is chewed up a little because it took some idle time for me to find out I had an alignment issue 🤣

I have a 3/8 wide, 12" long straight edge- I used it to make the faces of the crank pulley and the PS pulley planar to each other, and that helped with 98% of it. I think I need to tune the damper depth some more. It's a little bit of a hassle, but for $1000 in savings, I can deal with having to fine tune things lol

 

Innovator's West 8 rib setups are big $$$$, I figured there must be a cheaper way like this. I have an engine on a stand I plan to mock up everything so it shouldn't be to big of a hassle like if you were trying to do this in vehicle.

You should do a writeup on this when you get it fine tuned or even start one for discussion, because like you said, nobody posting this info online haha. I did find one video series of a guy who did a similar setup but as far as I know he hasn't run his setup yet so belt alignment may still be in the air with that.

 

I am not sure what else to post that I haven't already! I am running my setup, in 1st and Reverse, and only sometimes (because the 6L80 swap is acting up). Seen about 5000rpm so far

It hasn't thrown a belt yet and my blower with the small pulley and the new impeller is fawking LOUD. When I get the plumbing finished and trans sorted out, I can actually put some miles on it for us. For now I think I've posted all the info I have and can post

 

Arthur that's a nice set up and tonsss of helpful info! Just curious how necessary is hard anodizing the pullys? My other question is do you think having a dual belt pully puts alot more stress on the cranks bushing/ bearing? Only asking cuz I'm building this motor for longevity. What are your trucks mods?

 

I like hard anodize for longevity. In simple terms, it's harder than steel and it resists corrosion. The swap will work without it, but the ~$150 I think is worth it. You can save money and avoid it however

For out trucks, at the power level we are shooting for (sub 700whp) I would NOT consider a dedicated drive. House Of Boost does make dedicated drives, but we aren't shooting for the 1000+ level. I don't think a dedicated drive is necessary. I made 477whp on a stock 6rib setup, back in the day

my truck is a full bolt on 5.3 with 3.5" exhaust, 212/218 cam and a wastegate on the blower, I am controlling the gate with an AEM truboost. Gate pressure will be about 6psi, with two levels after that. I will be about 16lbs on "kill" but I won't run that without e85

I did 8 rib because I found what I thought was an easy way to do it, and the LSA lower is larger diameter, so I could overdrive the blower and get more bottom end (hopefully) and bleed off the extra boost with the wastegate