Here's a littel update on the 2.25 beta VCM app....

You can't segment swap a custom OS

so you'll need to write stock file, pull back, do the segment swap, load up then add the custom OS again.

 

Finally cracked open my 4L80e. Looks good on the inside. Just going to put a shift kit and run it stock. Hopefully will have in by thanksgiving

Anyone have a suggestion on trans fluid to use?

So... I've been helping a buddy with a few things on his V6 RWD Turbo Saturn SC2 (thats right, RWD Turbo V6).

Here's the video:

 

I plan on using 50/50 low vic hygard and normal atf.

 

I'm using Supertech (walmart) ATF. Cheapest stuff you can buy. I was planning on running HyGard but I couldn't find any locally, got fed up and just put regular ATF in. Truth be told, the only reason to run HyGard is if you have a transbrake or plan to do a lot of brake boosting at the track.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Anyone have an info on Kendall atf? I used to work at a porche race shop and they only used Kendall oil. Figured the atf would be good too. Case of 12 was is $55 on amazon prime. Figure I'd use those and top off with cheap stuff.

I guess a dry trans takes 14 qts. I was going to dump the converter before I put it back on. How many qts you guys putting in the converter before putting back on?

Finished up the shift kit yesterday. Trans is ready to go in.

 

Made a nifty trans holder to bolt to my engine stand. Works good. Trans is a lot heavier to spin for sure.

 

Yea so I made a similar one to that a couple weeks ago, but yours looks way better. I tried just using angle iron and it works ok when the trans is flat, but vertical if flexes like crazy. I think ill copy yours when I remake mine...

 

I used 1x1 16 ga (.063) steel. It works but it flexes too. That bastard is heavy, especially with the torque converter on it. I'd recommend going with a .125 wall or at least a 14 ga wall (.083).

 

So I put the 4l80 in. What a pain in the *** on the floor lol. Managed to modify my jack and put a 12 x 18 plate on it to hold the trans. Good thing the jack piston started to leak right before we went to take out the 4l60... Oh well. Finally got it in with a **** load of pumping up the jack.

Also turns out that the 4L80 I have is an inch shorter than the 4l60, so my stock drive shaft won't work. There is about 2.3" worth of joke sticking out and about 5/8" worth of engagement. I bought my joke from driveshaft specialties out of San Antonio. Jeff hooked it up. The Yoke part number is 9762x.



FYI the stock driveshaft on my truck (2001 Silverado LS, Regular cab, Regular Bed, 5.3L 2wd) is 58.125" (center cap to center cap). Looks like I'm getting a 5" aluminum shaft to get this thing back on the road. I think I might be able to get away with a 4". I guess we'll see.

I also modified the stock trans brace. It was quiet easy. I used 1/8" x 4" mild steel plate. The offset is 5.5" so the entire plate you need to cut is 9". The offset piece is aligned on the same horizontal plate (measured the joke height compared to stock) so when you weld you just move the cut piece out 5.5" and you're done.

most guys use 1/4" plate, but the 1/8" is fine. I put two gussets in on either side, so it's pretty sturdy.

Also finished up the wiring. I posted picks from another post of what I did for reference.

I got the extra VSS plug needed from a junk hard harness I had and pulled Pins from the ECU from stuff I wasn't using. The pins I pulled to used are listed below. They are EGR pins which I am not using and I turned off in HP tuners.



TPA (RED) 12176410

• Connector Cover 12191108

Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function

7
RED
1676
EGR Valve Supply Voltage (5 Volt)

41
WHT
257
EGR Solenoid Control

 

Any updates?