New times with the new motor
#33
I don't know of any "rules" with exhaust for n/a vs nitrous except you want the most free flowing setup you can build. Ditch the X pipe idea as well. Theyve cost more than one person power. It's a great 'theory' but from what I've seen, not worth your time or cash to worry about... If anything, stick a 3" piece of crosspipe between the banks right before the mufflers (H pipe I guess) just to balance the flow and pressure some and let it go. Others have different opinions but I've just never seen an X add any power with it's scavenging affect it supposedly has. If you have a 3" Y pipe now it'll be easy to do, cut it before the merge and run one more pipe/muffler/tip and you're there. I would do this before you change headers honestly, see what you gain, then add something else, test it, then add something else, test that then....... You get the idea
big changes in your setup without track time is where people get disappointed and throw in the towell. I know first hand...
Personally I wouldn't even bring the bottle to the track until you have the truck 60ft'ing and running the times it should on motor. Add some c16, work on suspension and tuning and you'd be surprised with the outcome. I'm not knocking yours or anyone else's build but the "built for nitrous" engines have never really impressed me because most people don't/can't/won't push them like they're intended to be. 9 times out of 10, something gets out of whack spraying 200-250 and they crater when in reality that motor would have eaten a 350-400 shot all day and loved it with the right tune up in it. I guess what I'm getting at is get your N/A program up to where it needs to be and then start at 100 and go from there... If your truck is dialed in, you'll gain more at each power addition from nitrous than you would by saying, "damn this things slow on motor, let's just spray the **** out of it..." skeets truck is an absolutely perfect example of this... Lots of track time, research, tuning ands went a best of 11.39 on motor, and deep 10.50's on a pretty rich 100 shot... But the truck was starting to finally 60' and come around where it should be.
big changes in your setup without track time is where people get disappointed and throw in the towell. I know first hand... Personally I wouldn't even bring the bottle to the track until you have the truck 60ft'ing and running the times it should on motor. Add some c16, work on suspension and tuning and you'd be surprised with the outcome. I'm not knocking yours or anyone else's build but the "built for nitrous" engines have never really impressed me because most people don't/can't/won't push them like they're intended to be. 9 times out of 10, something gets out of whack spraying 200-250 and they crater when in reality that motor would have eaten a 350-400 shot all day and loved it with the right tune up in it. I guess what I'm getting at is get your N/A program up to where it needs to be and then start at 100 and go from there... If your truck is dialed in, you'll gain more at each power addition from nitrous than you would by saying, "damn this things slow on motor, let's just spray the **** out of it..." skeets truck is an absolutely perfect example of this... Lots of track time, research, tuning ands went a best of 11.39 on motor, and deep 10.50's on a pretty rich 100 shot... But the truck was starting to finally 60' and come around where it should be.
#34
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11 Second Truck Club
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From: Midlothian, Texas
I don't know of any "rules" with exhaust for n/a vs nitrous except you want the most free flowing setup you can build. Ditch the X pipe idea as well. Theyve cost more than one person power. It's a great 'theory' but from what I've seen, not worth your time or cash to worry about... If anything, stick a 3" piece of crosspipe between the banks right before the mufflers (H pipe I guess) just to balance the flow and pressure some and let it go. Others have different opinions but I've just never seen an X add any power with it's scavenging affect it supposedly has. If you have a 3" Y pipe now it'll be easy to do, cut it before the merge and run one more pipe/muffler/tip and you're there. I would do this before you change headers honestly, see what you gain, then add something else, test it, then add something else, test that then....... You get the idea
big changes in your setup without track time is where people get disappointed and throw in the towell. I know first hand...
Personally I wouldn't even bring the bottle to the track until you have the truck 60ft'ing and running the times it should on motor. Add some c16, work on suspension and tuning and you'd be surprised with the outcome. I'm not knocking yours or anyone else's build but the "built for nitrous" engines have never really impressed me because most people don't/can't/won't push them like they're intended to be. 9 times out of 10, something gets out of whack spraying 200-250 and they crater when in reality that motor would have eaten a 350-400 shot all day and loved it with the right tune up in it. I guess what I'm getting at is get your N/A program up to where it needs to be and then start at 100 and go from there... If your truck is dialed in, you'll gain more at each power addition from nitrous than you would by saying, "damn this things slow on motor, let's just spray the **** out of it..." skeets truck is an absolutely perfect example of this... Lots of track time, research, tuning ands went a best of 11.39 on motor, and deep 10.50's on a pretty rich 100 shot... But the truck was starting to finally 60' and come around where it should be.
big changes in your setup without track time is where people get disappointed and throw in the towell. I know first hand... Personally I wouldn't even bring the bottle to the track until you have the truck 60ft'ing and running the times it should on motor. Add some c16, work on suspension and tuning and you'd be surprised with the outcome. I'm not knocking yours or anyone else's build but the "built for nitrous" engines have never really impressed me because most people don't/can't/won't push them like they're intended to be. 9 times out of 10, something gets out of whack spraying 200-250 and they crater when in reality that motor would have eaten a 350-400 shot all day and loved it with the right tune up in it. I guess what I'm getting at is get your N/A program up to where it needs to be and then start at 100 and go from there... If your truck is dialed in, you'll gain more at each power addition from nitrous than you would by saying, "damn this things slow on motor, let's just spray the **** out of it..." skeets truck is an absolutely perfect example of this... Lots of track time, research, tuning ands went a best of 11.39 on motor, and deep 10.50's on a pretty rich 100 shot... But the truck was starting to finally 60' and come around where it should be.
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