VVT Tuning.....
05-31-2019, 05:26 PM
#51
Retarding the cam in higher RPM allowed for the max power band to be carried past 5400 RPM, If I remember correctly when we tried going higher than 6 degrees there was too much overlap and we couldn’t get the boost to build past 4 or 5 pounds. It was like hitting a dead spot in the rpm band. At 4000rpm I start at 2 and at 8000rpm it stops at 6 degrees (have to look at tune to be sure)in my WOT vvt table (e78 ecu). On my ECU I don’t have the luxury of boost enrichment, so when tuning VVE table I maintain a leaner AFR in areas where I want to try and build boost and after I hit 3psi it richens up (per vve table). 1800rpm at 88 (map/baro) I keep it 14.0 and increase to my PE values that are set at the desired RPM-and throttle position . Yes there are times that I cruise on the freeway and it holds 3 psi at 14:1 at 25% throttle, but no detonation.
that gives me a few things to try out when i get mine back together, wasnt sure how principles would carry over
05-31-2019, 09:15 PM
#52
TECH Fanatic
I literally just put the 0 degree lock out block in my cam sprocket yesterday but can’t find it on the comp cams website. The block is just wider then the old one and just barely slides into the slot in side the cam gear.
if you look at the TSP link and scroll down I shows where they recommend the 0 degree lock out for the stage 2 cams.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-5412-t...t-package.aspx
if you look at the TSP link and scroll down I shows where they recommend the 0 degree lock out for the stage 2 cams.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-5412-t...t-package.aspx
06-01-2019, 08:31 AM
#53
I literally just put the 0 degree lock out block in my cam sprocket yesterday but can’t find it on the comp cams website. The block is just wider then the old one and just barely slides into the slot in side the cam gear.
if you look at the TSP link and scroll down I shows where they recommend the 0 degree lock out for the stage 2 cams.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-5412-t...t-package.aspx
if you look at the TSP link and scroll down I shows where they recommend the 0 degree lock out for the stage 2 cams.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-5412-t...t-package.aspx
sounds like it takes out all adjustment. if the block wont allow any rotation of the actuator then theres your answer
when you say wider than the old one - was there a block in your cam gear before?
link shows it includes comcams 5456, did you receive that with another cam block - the 0 degree block may not even be a comp part.
06-01-2019, 11:31 AM
#54
TECH Fanatic
No block in before. I installed this after removing my stock cam.
and now that you mention it. The block was in it’s on packaging separate from the comp cam phaser kit. The block is so big it would only fit into one of the slots on the cam gear. All the other ones where to small to slide it into.
and now that you mention it. The block was in it’s on packaging separate from the comp cam phaser kit. The block is so big it would only fit into one of the slots on the cam gear. All the other ones where to small to slide it into.
06-02-2019, 11:12 AM
#55
Unfortunately since the intake and exhaust can't be phased independently, there's no one-size-fits-all answer for what to do with the cam phasing with a turbo. It is super dependent on the combination of parts. But as you guys discovered things get shitty if you retard it too much, mostly due to starving the turbine up top. An exhaust valve that opens later is more efficient in terms of extracting energy from the fuel and delivering it to the crankshaft, but it can be severe enough that the turbo stops building boost. With the exhaust cooler and exiting the cylinder at lower pressure/velocity, it both delivers less energy to the turbine and will likely leave more exhaust in the cylinder on valve close because of the sluggish air column.
With cams that phase independently, you get the best of both worlds. Advance the intake and retard the exhaust on tip in to maximize NA torque and then ramp exhaust advance back in to prevent starving the turbine. I've played around with this on my car. The stock cal will retard the **** out of the exhaust cam at low cylinder air mass at WOT at elevation so it feels lazy as hell. Advancing the exhaust cam in the thinner air between 2000-3000 rpm on my car was worth like 800rpm sooner spool at WOT.
With cams that phase independently, you get the best of both worlds. Advance the intake and retard the exhaust on tip in to maximize NA torque and then ramp exhaust advance back in to prevent starving the turbine. I've played around with this on my car. The stock cal will retard the **** out of the exhaust cam at low cylinder air mass at WOT at elevation so it feels lazy as hell. Advancing the exhaust cam in the thinner air between 2000-3000 rpm on my car was worth like 800rpm sooner spool at WOT.
06-05-2019, 07:42 AM
#56
TECH Fanatic
Here is a good example of what I'm talking about with the 0 degree phaser block. This is one of the video's I used by this guy to do my cam swap. I really laid out all the little details I needed.
If you look at the picture you can see on his work bench the two blocks laying there. The smaller one is the block they send with the comp cam phaser install kit. The larger one is the one is TSP sent me separately.
If you watch the video and forward to 25:45 you can watch how it just barely fits
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Mark Johnson (06-05-2019)
06-05-2019, 10:01 AM
#57
TECH Fanatic
So I call TSP to see what they had to say about the 0 degree block I installed.
TSP said that on newer DI trucks like mine. The phaser its self is to weak so they suggest using the 0 degree block so you don’t have to worry about losing control of the cam in high HP builds. And you can just 0 out the phaser tables.
TSP said that on newer DI trucks like mine. The phaser its self is to weak so they suggest using the 0 degree block so you don’t have to worry about losing control of the cam in high HP builds. And you can just 0 out the phaser tables.
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