Timing in the 60' Launch
06-09-2006, 06:03 PM
#1
Timing in the 60' Launch
I have done some searching for some info on negative spark on the launch, I am failing miserably. What I am wondering is, what would that table look like? How can you not lose some time in your launch with that setup? I DO understand that you don't...I just read that a very heavy CC pulls 1.9's with this setup up. There I give my props to Crash for sure, he didn't need any noticing!
So, any theories or facts on why this is a better scenario than just adding some timing in the iat correction table besides it may be easier to some? Any other ideas besides these two?
So, any theories or facts on why this is a better scenario than just adding some timing in the iat correction table besides it may be easier to some? Any other ideas besides these two?
06-09-2006, 06:41 PM
#2
TECH Addict
Negative spark timing at launch ?? I'm obviously missing something here, WHY would you want to do that and just HOW negative are we talking ??
Do you mean pulling something like 5º from the base spark or do you mean having something like -2º AS your base spark ??
Do you mean pulling something like 5º from the base spark or do you mean having something like -2º AS your base spark ??
this is interesting.
06-09-2006, 06:59 PM
#5
TECH Addict
Ok....it starts to make more sense now, as a "traction control" or "torque management" technique I think the idea of running negative timing at launch is a pretty good one. I would definitely NOT use this in a street-driven-vehicle scenario as you'd lose ALOT of power when you hit the area of the table that has those timing values.
06-09-2006, 07:07 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Yelo
I would definitely NOT use this in a street-driven-vehicle scenario as you'd lose ALOT of power when you hit the area of the table that has those timing values.
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06-09-2006, 07:16 PM
#8
TECH Addict
BC did say he was using it TRACK ONLY, and crash is smart enough to know how much power he'd lose if it was used on the street. I'm gonna have to say this is a TRACK ONLY tuning technique.
I could see it being used idle-1600rpm on the street as "traction control" with a stock converter but it would be useless above that because you'd be in the "normal" rpm operating range.
I could see it being used idle-1600rpm on the street as "traction control" with a stock converter but it would be useless above that because you'd be in the "normal" rpm operating range.
06-09-2006, 07:19 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Yelo
BC did say he was using it TRACK ONLY, and crash is smart enough to know how much power he'd lose if it was used on the street. I'm gonna have to say this is a TRACK ONLY tuning technique.
I could see it being used idle-1600rpm on the street as "traction control" with a stock converter but it would be useless above that because you'd be in the "normal" rpm operating range.
I could see it being used idle-1600rpm on the street as "traction control" with a stock converter but it would be useless above that because you'd be in the "normal" rpm operating range.
ahhhh. Well then that makes me "pro-IAT correction table" then. I don't have to reload a tune.
06-09-2006, 07:28 PM
#10
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This is going to be hard to explain but here it goes. I went to the track and I could not get any consistent times because I would get tire spin so I used HPtuners scanner and used the fixed timing feature and removed timing so I could hold my gas pedal on the floor at 2000 rpm with no tire spin on my truck it was about -5 degrees at 2000 and my shifts never drop below 4800 rpm so I did a linear line from -5 degrees to full timing at 4800 rpm my 60' times went from 2.4-2.9 down to 1.9 on street tires with no spin and I did 1.9 60,s 11 runs in a row and my ET went from 13.9 down to 13.4 . So this gets better the next time I go to the track I decide to run slicks and full timing and I was not able to improve my 60' or 1/4 times at all over the street tire program with the timing removed. It all comes down to if you spin your tire for 1 second you will be a second slower and the only time the timing is removed is for the first 20 feet and this method is really no different than a slipper clutch on a fueler, you just need to keep the tires sticking to the pavement.