fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

Since I don't have $80 for a new rear o2, can I just leave it in there & delete out using HPTuners? If so, will it affect my gas mileage?

Has anybody solid evidence on MPG loss, if any? How critical to performance output? For now, I wanted to remove the rear until I buy a new one. After my Dynatech install, it seems like I get about 10000 miles before it goes. It's always the passenger rear( or Bank 2 Sensor 2). This is going to be the 2nd time on this.
Here's my thoughts: Maybe when GM replaced under warranty the o2, could a pinced wire cause it?

A short on the o2 w/harness? Plus, what are odds o2 was faulty(defective) as a new part?

If I have backpressure seeping out @ slip fit on Dynatech crossover or flange after cat where it connects to my Corsa, could it be prematurely wacking out that rear o2? I'm calling it backpressure, maybe a minor exhaust leak is a better name( appears as black sooty appearance @ seams). I'm wondering since it's black that denotes rich, so the computer is feeding more/ less fuel in accordance o2 reading.

ANY IDEAS WHERE TO LOOK? No, I don't have a wideband hooked up either...yet, still in a box.

StrokerAce03

iTrader: (7)

MPG isn't affected; all the rear 02's do is tell you if the cats are working or not.

gao8302

iTrader: (13)

Yes sir.

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

No ****? Any idea where in HPTuners I can program the rears out? Where to look or go bout it? Sounds like $160(2 @ $80 per) extra on vehicles w/4 o2s. Extra weight just slowin me down, huh?

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

Plus, that SES lite is just irritating. I'm still learning, & even when I see it under the DTCs, I guess I gotta figure how to disable lite until I get a new o2(if I do). I know there's a few acronyms under the DTC info I looked at. MIL or something...memory fuzzy. If I delete info permanently w/HPT, as I learn to tune, then I'll worry. I'm sure not buyin that rear o2 every 10k miles.

Mort

Go into Diagnostics and set the code to NO MIL. Do not turn them off just set it so the SES does not come on. If you turn them right OFF I think it frigs up the PCM or that is what I read.

I am not sure where to find that in HPT but if you look around or check the help file you should find it pretty easily.

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

Cool. I was wondering what the cause was too. Along w/, where to look in HPT. I just haven't looked yet on the info, the NO MIL info helps. I'll check there. I thought I'd have more replies to my title. Maybe I should of said, o2 Problems &/ or where to look at cause; and how to modify.
If my immediate( or temporary) solution to just turn off works til I fork over $ for new o2, & w/ no ramifications, it might become a permanent fix. I mean hey, solving a problem w/o spending $, is ok in my book.

mcfarlnd

iTrader: (15)

engine diagnostics>dtcs> de-select anything that has to do with sensor2 in banks 1 and 2, clear the light then check to make sure it stays off.

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

Bank 1 is before the cats. I don't want to disable pre-cat. Only post-cat. I want performance but not @ expense of killin mileage. Closed loop contributes to mileage, correct? That's what heated o2 sensors were for, so I thought...quicker liteoff.

kbracing96

iTrader: (26)

Bank 1 is drivers side, bank 2 is pass. Sensor 1 is the front, sensor 2 is the rear. Set anything for sensor 2 to not report, no MIL and uncheck the SES button. Should be about 8 things I think.

The heated sensors are so they will warm up and respond faster, not to light the cats off faster.