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Well, I'm officially an idiot. I didn't pay attention that the u joint on the differential was not seated correctly. Last night I got under there and fixed that. I got in the freeway this morning and vibration is gone! 👍
I was also looking around the front suspension and looks like I need to redo my front end. I have some questions for you guys since I've never done this...
Really? Looks like my tie rods are shot. There's play in the assembly rod that connects (what is that called?) to the idler arm. So I'll need to replace that as well. Is "outer tie rod" referring to the one that connects to the knuckle and "inner tie rod" the one that connects them to the idller/steering gearbox?
Upper ball joints...No movement on the 12 and 6'oclock. Leave them upper and lower ball joints alone for now? What to do there if I replaced them?
Replace the entire upper control arm that already has new bushings and ball joint?
I'm looking at Rockauto. There's so many brands! AC Delco, Delphi, Moog, Mevotech, etc., and they each have several parts under the same brand.
I would just be looking at replacing ball joints although if you don't have the tool to do it nor want to do the work it may be cheaper just to get new arms.
I did an idler arm one time but I can't remember how difficult it was, I think it was simple but can't remember. Tie rods are not bad either just paint where the old one is at so you get it somewhat lined up.
ACDelco and Moog is the only thing I will run. Delphi is probably alright too. If I was doing tie rods on a 4wd I would probably be looking at the Kryptonite beefy ones or at least some sleeves
Well, I bought stuff from the local parts store. This is a 2wd road daily driver, so I had to settle for that. My wife didn't let me put these boxes under the tree, LOL. 🤭
I've been watching some videos on replacing these parts. I think I'll try renting the pitman arm remover tool. Or I'll just buy one. Hopefully the temperature warms up tomorrow.
BTW, I haven't seen any oil drips on my driveway, so I think that's good. I'll install the torque converter cover tomorrow and look around. 🧐
I Did Moog problem solver upper arms with everything installed already. They were less than $60 each. Then I did the PPE Tie rods as the most cost effect solution for now...
I bought the Moog lower ball joints but I had to go on a trip the next day. I paid more in Labor to have them installed than the parts cost so they could knock it out and get the alignment done for me.
If I would have had the Time, I would have done it my self But It's much more time consuming doing it one side at a time on a drive way and I needed to get the alignment done too. I put about 800 miles on it the next day towing and I didn't want to be broke down.
I tried replacing those parts yesterday and today. The parts store gave me the wrong box for the idler arm. Went and got the right part. Then when I was putting everything back together the pitman arm didn't fit, so I used the old one.
I started painting the center link bar thing...then things got things out of hand 🤦♂️🤷.
I've had this popping sound on the front right area over some bumps and sometimes under suspension articulation. I was hoping this would be it, but it didn't make a difference. I think upper/lower ball joints would be be next items to replace?
This is a 2wd. No CV axles, front differential or steering stabilizer, although it seems like the parts are similar or the same for the 4x4 optioned trucks? 🤔
The center link has that extra hole (took me a while to figure it out when I was putting stuff back together, LOL.) And the front frame has the bracket also for the steering stabilizer 🧐.
I found a thread somewhere a guy said he had popping sounds and it was the ball joints. The previous owner of the burn cranked the torsion bars to level the front. I don't think that helps any.
12-20-2022, 10:17 AM
