You take the bolt out and set a jig on the end of the crankshaft then use a supplied bolt to keep the jig in place. The jig has two holes 180 degrees apart that are lined up half on the crank and half on the pulley, just use the supplied drill bit and reamer to drill the holes straight into the crankshaft/pulley. Take the jig off and tap in the two supplied steel pins. Then just put the crank bolt back on, guaranteed you will never have to worry about the crank pulley slipping.

 

Hmmmm........ pretty cool. I am going to try the sharpie thing this weekend, or maybe thursday when i head over to the dyno.

 

I said more than likely goober. I have seen a few scans of belt and crank slip and the boosts is yucky looking. Granted on inertia alone it'd make sense the boost would actually be stable, so your 2 pennies are pretty worthy.

 

The old lady says the same thing

i just tell her to shut up and make me a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.

 

Looking @ your pic it looks like you could afford to go a bit tighter on the tensioner pully on the SC bracket so you get max belt surface area on the actual SC pully. The smaller the pully the more wrap around you need, spacially when your trying to push more boost.

 

Sorry, just read your first post on this topic & realised that you said the belt was tight. That tensioner pully should slide over a bit more than that for a better wrap. If not, I would endevour to acheive that. Mine wraps way closer than that.
The internal PCV is a hole in the manifold. I have measured my crankcase pressure @ 2psi under boost, my MAP is 5psi where it should be 7.
Raylar decrease the size of this hole in there manifolds for this reason.

 

It may slide a little more, but i didnt want to over tighten it. So are you having the same issue as me? What size pulley are you running? If you have a 2003 8.1L with a whipple supercharger and whipple intercooler that is pretty cool because there are not to many of us. I would love to see some of your tune files if you do your own tuning. Do you have any pics of your engine bay? Any track or dyno numbers?

 

I have a 2005 2500LT Avalanche with whipples own new SC (waited 8 months 4 it) & intercooler. I do have boost drop off @ high rpm and speed. I have done heaps of research as to why it happens. I have not tried to increase boost from standard yet, though I have 2 pulleys to try. I'm using HPT @ the moment but my original tune was EFI live which I was not happy with. (attached)
I will get some engine bay pics organised.
As for sliding the pulley over a bit more, check the OEM tensioner for how much spring is left in it. Ive just increased my belt length to accommodate better wrap around SC pulley.

 

Here are some pics.
My truck has been converted to RHD, so some serious mods needed to be done to accomadate the SC install.
The fans are flexi lite normally for a duramax and they work well.
Any chance of looking at your tune??????

 

Looks good man, I dig that radix style blower adapter on there. Thats a lot shorter run than mine intake track. I will have a look at your tune and see if there is anything that looks different. My tune is in the link in the first post of this thread. Its an EFI tune. Out of curiosity, why did you drop EFI and go HPT? What issues does HPT cover that EFI can not?