Still sounds like an intermittent connection somewhere. Did you also pop the purple clips off the backs of the connectors and tug on each wire there? I have seen separations at the terminals.

 

Yep, tried that too. Odd thing is it just started out of the blue. Nothing has been changed of late but the alternator and that puppy is putting out 14.2 as it should and the battery is holding firm at 12.48. Could the X-link have quit on me? I'll know tomorrow after I drive about 50 miles since I just installed the 4.0 that came in the mail today.

 

This could delay the powerup of the TAC module if it occurs at key on. I don't recall if they have a resistor between that pin and ground. If not, the threshold is 4.5V. With a resistor it will be lower.

It could be the TAC module itself or something else in your electrical system that causes this to happen with the 90mm/X-Link hooked up, so I wouldn't buy a TAC module right away.

We can also try a modded X-Link if you want to mail that one back.

I don't think this will make a difference but, as per the troubleshooting document, you can also try swapping the Ignition 1 and Starter relays(they should both be the large square ones). This relay has been known to cause P1518 as well.

 

Depends how old the X-Link is and what kind of thermal cycling and vibration it has been subjected to. It should not be in direct contact with hot engine parts.

 

Just re-read the X-link trouble shooting instructions and completely spaced on the P0220 alone comment which it does from time to time but usually accompanied by a P2135. Also found quite a few write ups of a bad ignition relay setting these codes as well. Can't go wrong replacing a couple of $14 relays in hopes this does it as well, no?

 

I had it mounted on top of the TBSS intake off to the side. It does get a little hot but nothing severe. I've had it on there since the engine swap - about two years now. Trying the relay switch swap tomorrow as well - who knows?

 

I'm willing to try the modded x link. I can send you the one I have back to you. What exactly does the modded one do different? I'm just curious. I like learning.

 

It is assumed that with a P0220(TPS2 out of range) or P0120(TPS1 out of range), P2135(Signals out of sync with each other) will also be present. It should probably say "alone except for 2135."

I think your relays are OK.

Should be good there as long as the box and the wiring are secured.

 

Okay - with the new 4.0 X-link on board I ran the snot out of her this morning and couldn't get the codes to throw. Ran the following resistance test as spelled out in the trouble shooting tips on the older 3.0 I took off yesterday:

X-Link ohm tests: measure resistance between the same-colored leads on the two connectors of the X-Link they should all be equal and near 0 ohm:

Solid Black to Solid Black - Good
Green to Green - Good
Yellow to Yellow - Good
Brown to Brown - Good


X-Link 3.0- Grey to Grey is 34 ohms -33 off by one
orange to purple is 19.5 Kohms - 19.36 - off by nearly .2

Other than that I swapped out the relays (starter and ignition) - no codes yet. About to go start it up again and see.

Is the difference in the last two measurements enough to throw it off or ?

 

Those numbers are good.