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Manuel Locking Hubs

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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 02:49 PM
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Exclamation Manuel Locking Hubs

I was told that the reason my fron diff. is not locking up is because I need to replace my hubs. I own a 1980 Chevy Blazer with a 350, what hubs would you all recommend. I see that the prices range from 50.00 to 300.00
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 03:10 PM
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always have hear warn hubs great but never messed with any of the hubs like those
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 10:48 AM
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are you saying you get NO engagement from the front axle or only one wheel spins?
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by andrew383
are you saying you get NO engagement from the front axle or only one wheel spins?


Will not engage at all. I thought it would be the spider gears of the transfer case.
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 10:33 AM
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i assume you have auto locking hubs now? You can get the Warn's at Oreilly's or Advanced
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 10:52 AM
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No I didn't know that i could convert it to auto lock
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 11:18 AM
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you more than likely have an open diff . . . (spider gears)

the hubs are easy to strip. (getting airborne) Some are all plastic, or metal and plastic.

Once you've locked in the hubs, and it's in 4wd back up a few feet in reverse to "lock em in" . . . you'll feel it in the stearing wheel when they're locked
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 04:43 PM
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Can you all get me a link to the parts I need.
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 10:02 AM
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Manual hubs. Much better and you don't need to spend alot.

Mile Marker. Not for the most aggresive 4-wheeler but they will hold up.


www.ntwonline.com
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 01:20 PM
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I like the Mile Marker hubs. I had warn's on my '84 silverado and while they worked fine I think the Mile Markers are made better for the price. The metal insert that the cap screws into on the warns is aluminum and strips out to easily if you over tighten.
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