Needing ideas for sub box
#1
Hello, looking to build a sub box for 2 Skar Audio VD 12’s to go under the back seat of my 2001 Silverado extended cab, have take many measurements but just can’t seem to get them just right. Needing at least 1 cube per side and will be separate chambers. Anybody have any ideas or dimensions that could help me out would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
#3
Hello, looking to build a sub box for 2 Skar Audio VD 12’s to go under the back seat of my 2001 Silverado extended cab, have take many measurements but just can’t seem to get them just right. Needing at least 1 cube per side and will be separate chambers. Anybody have any ideas or dimensions that could help me out would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
What are you asking?
#5
if your having a problem with figuring out the detentions you might just be better off buying a prebuilt enclosure, not saying that to be a jerk but the box can make or break the sound quality of the audio system especially if it leaks
some times when dealing with the center hump in the floor it can get confusing what i find best it to imagine its 3 boxes the drivers side, center (hump section) and passenger side figure out the air space for each box combined them then split it and thats is your air volume for each chamber, you need to find the specs for your sub to see how much air space the sub itself needs and how much the sub takes away from the enclosure when mounted, any internal bracing also needs to be figured in and take out of the box volume when making your calculations
@madmann26 usually guys just add subs to a stock system or go off peak amp power when they put a system together and the mids and highs are way under powered so its bass heavy, you can have two 12's in a sealed box and have classical music sound amazing if the system was well designed
some times when dealing with the center hump in the floor it can get confusing what i find best it to imagine its 3 boxes the drivers side, center (hump section) and passenger side figure out the air space for each box combined them then split it and thats is your air volume for each chamber, you need to find the specs for your sub to see how much air space the sub itself needs and how much the sub takes away from the enclosure when mounted, any internal bracing also needs to be figured in and take out of the box volume when making your calculations
@madmann26 usually guys just add subs to a stock system or go off peak amp power when they put a system together and the mids and highs are way under powered so its bass heavy, you can have two 12's in a sealed box and have classical music sound amazing if the system was well designed
#6
^ what he said. Sometimes better to buy than build.
FWIW, back in the day building sub boxes usually took quite a bit of math as well as trial and error on odd shapes. For true BOX boxes, start the volume formula with desired cubes minus volume of the magnet. Then figure out where the sub face will sit so you can measure box depth for correct backspace for your particular sub. Some woofers need more space than others behind the magnet for correct wave amplification in the box. Now you have 2 known variables and space constraints to back into other dimensions. Available height and width will max out 2 more variables for easier math. Then build one out of cardboard to test fit. Remember to compensate for materials thickness when calculating interior volume.
One day I had a weird idea to build a glass box in a sedan spare tire storage area without giving up trunk space or the spare tire. Shallow 10" started the project because it barely met depth requirement. The shape of that weird thing caused the first product to sound like garbage! Second build sounded better but not clean. Third build reached the point of good enough for my broke *** college budget. Other glass builds were a lot easier until my landlord asked me to stop using the patio for manufacturing with hazardous waste lol
FWIW, back in the day building sub boxes usually took quite a bit of math as well as trial and error on odd shapes. For true BOX boxes, start the volume formula with desired cubes minus volume of the magnet. Then figure out where the sub face will sit so you can measure box depth for correct backspace for your particular sub. Some woofers need more space than others behind the magnet for correct wave amplification in the box. Now you have 2 known variables and space constraints to back into other dimensions. Available height and width will max out 2 more variables for easier math. Then build one out of cardboard to test fit. Remember to compensate for materials thickness when calculating interior volume.
One day I had a weird idea to build a glass box in a sedan spare tire storage area without giving up trunk space or the spare tire. Shallow 10" started the project because it barely met depth requirement. The shape of that weird thing caused the first product to sound like garbage! Second build sounded better but not clean. Third build reached the point of good enough for my broke *** college budget. Other glass builds were a lot easier until my landlord asked me to stop using the patio for manufacturing with hazardous waste lol
#7
What is the problem EXACTLY? Start with your outside measurements as if it were a rectangle box. Subtract for the thickness of material, and measure the areas you have to work around and subtract that. If you start with more space then you want, then you can start making a side smaller until you get where you want.
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#8
#9
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Chad
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There ya go, look-pay-receive-enjoy!!
Chad
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