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So this is final in. Broke the subs in at 400w, and was able to turn em up today, and get it tested fully, no problems. Works great. That was kinda fun.
Now I'm already planning on taking it down. I had just one set of components playing, and it goes loud enough. Any more is guaranteed to cause hearing damage, and I don't need a system to play with the doors open. Already ordered another rack. When it's here, I'll take it apart and redo the mounting holes, plus the middle amp. Going to take off one set of crossovers, and I already have a smaller hertz amp I will replace the alpine with. The overkill is nice, but one set of components lets me keep the stock door panels, and all you will see is just a single din head unit. I plan to get back out and about, and want to keep this hidden as much as possible. Thinking of maybe a slightly off chevy symbol, maybe even with fancy light on a switch.
It shouldn't be bad to redo. This was my first time with plexiglass, and it was pretty easy to work with. Probably only take a day or two to get it all back up when the new sheet gets here, as long as I don't need to get any new wire. I'll keep the sheet just in case, and it's just some assembly time and a bunch of zip ties if I want to go back for some reason.
Trying to think about what I might change if I had to start from scratch. The cabin pressure vents stick a little far out, and along the way had to notch their holes a little deeper so I don't break em. The busbar doesn't look as clean as it could, and I've seen a few fancy products that have lights if that's your thing, but for working on it, I just unscrew the ring terminals if I don't want an amp to come on which makes setup and dialing them in pretty easy and it has a small footprint on there. Think I learned and talked about what needed to be changed from concept to finished.
I also did this along the way:
Those two ***** control the amps. They are potentiometers/RCA voltage ***** to control the input. My head unit could let me have a front and rear channel, but instead I combined those two amps, and have one **** for subs, and one **** for mids and highs to a splitter then the two amps. I can have absolutely full bass with zero mids and highs if I want. So far whatever volume I have it on, I seem to sound best with full bass and M&H just a little lower, (about 80% or so). I lose fader control, but in a reg cab, there really isn't a rear stage. So I lose that option, but I gain completely independent control at whatever volume I want either one at, instead of the common, subs can be at or less than the rest of the speakers.
Now I just need to find a way to keep my mirror from drooping down. What a terrible problem to have.
Totally works. Completely happy with how it turned out, now just need to tone it down from wild out to wild in.