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considering sub install

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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 06:17 AM
  #11  
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I have 2 10" pioneer champions in a ported box in my jeep. Used 4ga wire for power and ground. They sound awesome. I wasn't looking to break glass or anything. They hit very hard and the sound is very clear. And I only have 400 into my audio system.
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by CC05
...I promise you, and you can also get QUALITY stuff, not Pioneer. I can argue to my face turns blue on that subject, trust me...
...but I'm very familiar with audio, much more than anything else. You might think Pioneer sounds good, until you hear what better your money can get you.
Care to share what you have in mind? I'm also wanting to upgrade my audio, now that I'm done with exterior mods.
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by CC05
I hate to just cut into a thread with some obnoxious sounding opinion, but I've worked part-time in audio for a while. Capacitors are novice material. They essentially do nothing. You shouldn't be worried about voltage, and if you were then I'd suggest you make a call to Kinetik or Shuriken, if all else fails. Also, many local shops carry boxes that are fit to that application. If not, they aren't hard to tack together at all. Just make sure that you get as much airspace possible out of what you buy. I know you want Pioneer, but their car audio is not up to par as far as quality goes. You can get a set of coaxils, a head unit, a box, a sub, and an amp for your budget. I promise you, and you can also get QUALITY stuff, not Pioneer. I can argue to my face turns blue on that subject, trust me. HOWEVER, you might could fit a shallow-mount Pioneer Premier in that box and it be alright. I'm not trying to be negative, but I'm very familiar with audio, much more than anything else. You might think Pioneer sounds good, until you hear what better your money can get you.
Wrong!
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 11:50 PM
  #14  
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That pioneer amp only puts out 600Wrms max if you are lucky at 2ohms. If you have a stock 80 amp or above alternator, you really don't have much to worry about. If you have bad light dimming then do the big 3 by upgrading your wiring and it should be fine. If you have an older battery then might be a good idea to get a new one. If you still have light dimming (I highly doubt it) then try getting a 2nd battery or get a HO alt. For the amp in question you really do not need all of that, but yes it is always a good idea to upgrade your electrical if you can afford it as like other hobbies you will probably want to upgrade in the future and you will have some room to grow possibly.

Capacitors are a band aid, they will not help out. If you want to help out or solve a electrical problem the right way get a High output alternator and or Battery/batteries and get the proper wiring, big 3 etc..

Yes some of the "show cars" you see on TV does have the pretty light up capacitors for looks, but they also have the electrical to back it up as well with plenty of batts and HO alts..

I also have been into car audio for awhile now, I took a break from it though.

Other High quality brands that have "budget line subs" and is 10X better than pioneer is Audioque, Sundown Audio, SSA, Incriminator Audio, RE, Cadence, etc.. All these brands have subs for around $100-$150 in the budget lines they offer btw.


If you want to stick with mainstream brands, Other Mainstream brands that are better than Pioneer IMO are Memphis, Soundstream, RF etc..
I guess that RE is pretty much mainstream now though, it used to not be.
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 01:48 AM
  #15  
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I think capacitors are a bit shrouded in mystery, so not a lot of people think they work. Its very easy to have it set up wrong and not work at all. Capacitors block DC current so you can't actually put them in line with your positive power source or it won't work...they aren't batteries They need to have a good connection to the battery negative (or otherwise very good chassis ground) and need to have the positive post simply attached to the 12V power cable from the battery going to the amp. Closer to the amp the better. Basically all a capacitor will do is store electric potential until the available potential at its terminals begins to drop (ie large load on the electrical system, like a deep subwoofer hit) and the capacitor will begin to drain its stored energy in effort to maintain voltage. When demand decreases and terminal voltage returns to normal, the capacitor also recharges.
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 08:27 AM
  #16  
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Simply put, a solid state or electrolytic capacitor, used inline with an external amplifier, in a car audio aplication, is nothing more than a voltage sabilizer. The the electrical signal coming from your electrical system (alternator) wether stock or aftermarket highoutput has constant fluxuations, making it what I call a dirty signal, with verrying degrees depending on the electrial system. Some are BAD, some are not noticable.

A Cap, takes said dirty signal with its votage peaks and vallies, looks like /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\, and stabilizes it to the ouput voltage (digital ones are adjustable for use in higher voltage systems) as designed. This makes the signal presented to the amp go from /\/\/\/\/, to -------------. A cleaned up signal that is more constatnt. The result, a clearer signal to the amp means a more efficent amp and a clearer output from said amp. Which equates the single, and overall goal, purpose of a cap: better sound quality and definition.

THEY SERVER A PURPOSE!!!! It is just a specific one, they are not "novice material" and are not worthless.

Last edited by blade7022; Dec 16, 2011 at 01:33 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 11:43 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 454navyss
im planning on stepping up to a 145amp charging system as well so that shouldnt be a problem. any recommendation on wires, terminals, etc? (gold plated at a minimum im sure because of its conductivity)
I am running this system with the standard alternator.
Attached Thumbnails considering sub install-lola-subs-system-complete-before-.jpg   considering sub install-lola-subs-lanzar-amp-jvc-amp-pioneer-amp-before-.jpg   considering sub install-lola-polk-audio-amp-capacitor-fuse-block-lanzar-amp.jpg  
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 02:02 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Silverick
I am running this system with the standard alternator.
Thats not saying much! Its based on the peak capable amp draw of the amplifiers that madates going high output for the alternator. Grated, the factory alternator output is rated and the demands in stock form, so in theory, any added electroics would mandate an aftermarket alt. But on a low demand stereo, voltage drop would be minimal making it not quite a nessecity to upgrade. But again, any aftermarket external amplification will benifit in an HO alt. in the form of decreased voltage drop, which is the number 1 killer of amps.
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