Big Amp Alternator
08-26-2020, 02:21 AM
#21
dude don’t be a dick read what I said again.. if my 04 can run a 2k amp with no big 3 or anything just a 4awg amp kit with no dimming then his newer truck will have no issues with what I said since he is running less then 1000 watts.. what I said about 1/0 made sense as like my truck his stuff is under the hood so running a 1/0 ofc power to the back where his block will be is fine. It also gives him the ability to step up and not have to redo everything down the road if he wanted too.. he will however need a better battery . I can think of 3 batteries he can run right now that will charge off of 145 amps and be rated for 2-3500 watts which again is way more then he is even running..
so let’s use his 1000 watts at 12v that’s only 83.333 amps and knowing that most amps have rating for 12-14.4-16v he is fine with his stock alt and a bigger better battery ( a d4800 xs power is rated for 3000watts just a FYI).
so let’s use his 1000 watts at 12v that’s only 83.333 amps and knowing that most amps have rating for 12-14.4-16v he is fine with his stock alt and a bigger better battery ( a d4800 xs power is rated for 3000watts just a FYI).
* Your 4awg wiring is under sized.
* The big 3 is good to do, even if you haven't done a single thing else to your electrical system. You clearly have a lot to learn if you haven't upgraded that as if its some badge of honor not to.
* His newer 2013 truck runs at lower voltages than your 04. Again, you have a lot to learn.
* 1/0 awg wire has a conductor cross section of 53.5 mm. 4awg wire has 21.1mm. 8awg has 8.37mm. Tell me why from the battery it should be 1/0awg wire?
* Stock alt is 145amps. 83 amps leaves 62 amps to run the vehicle off. Half of that is going to the fans, care to try your math again? Would you try to understand that the rest of the truck uses current for Headlights, horn, fuel injection, ECU, Air conditioning etc.. . I love how you tell em to plan ahead, because they need to be worried about a 10 foot wire, but don't plan ahead in case he might ever want to drive at night, or when its hot out.
* 145 amp alt, is not even 145 amps all the time. That's max charge. It doesn't happen at idle or near it. This is why when you upgrade an amp you should also know what the charge is at idle, and what the rpms needed are for max charge. If an alt doesn't give full charge until 2500 rpms, and most of your commute keeps you at 55 doing 1600 rpms, then full charge doesn't mean **** does it? You're reminding me of the know it all punk in the beginning of fast and the furious tokyo drift, quoting specs out of a pamphlet, but doesn't know what they are doing behind the wheel.
* Why the hell do you keep bringing up a battery? It needs enough to run everything, that's it. A bigger battery isn't going to make his system run better. It needs to be big enough to run everything, and after that a bigger battery stores more to last longer. Using an alternator that can fully charge the system, keeps you from draining the battery over time. A larger battery just has more energy stockpiled, but if the charging can't keep up, you will eventually drain the battery. Did you not plan ahead that you might need to drive for more than a couple hours?
It sounds like you're trying to teach someone how to rig it up so that it looks like its working. I'm trying to help someone learn how to do things the right way, and if they choose to cut corners, they should know what it could mean, and that's on them.
P.S. You also forgot to mention that 5,000 watts of power on a stock (I'll stick with the size we are talking about), 145 amp alternator. Feel free to elaborate on how you think that is supposed to keep up with the 347 amp + the rest of the vehicle draw.
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dantheman1540 (08-26-2020)
08-26-2020, 06:08 AM
#22
I KNOW I'm not being a dick to everybody other than you, I'm helping them by pointing out you don't know what you are talking about. If you think I am I being a dick to you, then stop trying to dump BS info. Even if you don't like me, I'm still going to make an effort to help the board.
* Your 4awg wiring is under sized.
* The big 3 is good to do, even if you haven't done a single thing else to your electrical system. You clearly have a lot to learn if you haven't upgraded that as if its some badge of honor not to.
* His newer 2013 truck runs at lower voltages than your 04. Again, you have a lot to learn.
* 1/0 awg wire has a conductor cross section of 53.5 mm. 4awg wire has 21.1mm. 8awg has 8.37mm. Tell me why from the battery it should be 1/0awg wire?
* Stock alt is 145amps. 83 amps leaves 62 amps to run the vehicle off. Half of that is going to the fans, care to try your math again? Would you try to understand that the rest of the truck uses current for Headlights, horn, fuel injection, ECU, Air conditioning etc.. . I love how you tell em to plan ahead, because they need to be worried about a 10 foot wire, but don't plan ahead in case he might ever want to drive at night, or when its hot out.
* 145 amp alt, is not even 145 amps all the time. That's max charge. It doesn't happen at idle or near it. This is why when you upgrade an amp you should also know what the charge is at idle, and what the rpms needed are for max charge. If an alt doesn't give full charge until 2500 rpms, and most of your commute keeps you at 55 doing 1600 rpms, then full charge doesn't mean **** does it? You're reminding me of the know it all punk in the beginning of fast and the furious tokyo drift, quoting specs out of a pamphlet, but doesn't know what they are doing behind the wheel.
* Why the hell do you keep bringing up a battery? It needs enough to run everything, that's it. A bigger battery isn't going to make his system run better. It needs to be big enough to run everything, and after that a bigger battery stores more to last longer. Using an alternator that can fully charge the system, keeps you from draining the battery over time. A larger battery just has more energy stockpiled, but if the charging can't keep up, you will eventually drain the battery. Did you not plan ahead that you might need to drive for more than a couple hours?
It sounds like you're trying to teach someone how to rig it up so that it looks like its working. I'm trying to help someone learn how to do things the right way, and if they choose to cut corners, they should know what it could mean, and that's on them.
P.S. You also forgot to mention that 5,000 watts of power on a stock (I'll stick with the size we are talking about), 145 amp alternator. Feel free to elaborate on how you think that is supposed to keep up with the 347 amp + the rest of the vehicle draw.
* Your 4awg wiring is under sized.
* The big 3 is good to do, even if you haven't done a single thing else to your electrical system. You clearly have a lot to learn if you haven't upgraded that as if its some badge of honor not to.
* His newer 2013 truck runs at lower voltages than your 04. Again, you have a lot to learn.
* 1/0 awg wire has a conductor cross section of 53.5 mm. 4awg wire has 21.1mm. 8awg has 8.37mm. Tell me why from the battery it should be 1/0awg wire?
* Stock alt is 145amps. 83 amps leaves 62 amps to run the vehicle off. Half of that is going to the fans, care to try your math again? Would you try to understand that the rest of the truck uses current for Headlights, horn, fuel injection, ECU, Air conditioning etc.. . I love how you tell em to plan ahead, because they need to be worried about a 10 foot wire, but don't plan ahead in case he might ever want to drive at night, or when its hot out.
* 145 amp alt, is not even 145 amps all the time. That's max charge. It doesn't happen at idle or near it. This is why when you upgrade an amp you should also know what the charge is at idle, and what the rpms needed are for max charge. If an alt doesn't give full charge until 2500 rpms, and most of your commute keeps you at 55 doing 1600 rpms, then full charge doesn't mean **** does it? You're reminding me of the know it all punk in the beginning of fast and the furious tokyo drift, quoting specs out of a pamphlet, but doesn't know what they are doing behind the wheel.
* Why the hell do you keep bringing up a battery? It needs enough to run everything, that's it. A bigger battery isn't going to make his system run better. It needs to be big enough to run everything, and after that a bigger battery stores more to last longer. Using an alternator that can fully charge the system, keeps you from draining the battery over time. A larger battery just has more energy stockpiled, but if the charging can't keep up, you will eventually drain the battery. Did you not plan ahead that you might need to drive for more than a couple hours?
It sounds like you're trying to teach someone how to rig it up so that it looks like its working. I'm trying to help someone learn how to do things the right way, and if they choose to cut corners, they should know what it could mean, and that's on them.
P.S. You also forgot to mention that 5,000 watts of power on a stock (I'll stick with the size we are talking about), 145 amp alternator. Feel free to elaborate on how you think that is supposed to keep up with the 347 amp + the rest of the vehicle draw.
do you build car stereo for a living??
what kind of system do YOU have??
You asked why I keep bringing up upgrading the battery.. well when you wire a amp it get wired to the alt of the battery?? The way you keep going on about the system drawing 83 amp off the alt is false cause ur system doesn’t draw direct from the alt it draws from the battery. Your talking about a 950wrms stereo system. Most cars with a bose system are that powerful. All while running stock alt and bs wire. No custom shop will tell him that for 950watts of power he needs to do a alt ..
most sub amps are bigger then that and it’s wired with a amp kit and that’s it ..
you talk about me just talking bs u started to go on about wire cross section lol clown not all wire is the same u should know this if u do this for a living or are into car audio.. sky high 1/0 is as big as 2/0 welding cable .. it all depends on what company you get it from as to if it’s more copper or more shroud..
so I’ll say it again
big 3 all 1/0 ( good to have period )
1/0 from batty to back ( this is to only allow for upgrades done down the road as over building never hurts)
upgrade factory battery to something better
a North Star, xs power etc..( again this is over building for what your power levels are but it never hurts )
He can even add a second battery as your truck should have a place near the fire wall for it.
my knowledge in this is from years of building car audio for spl comps.
to the op if you think he is right then by all means waste 500-700 bucks on a mech man, brand x etc.. but what I’ll say is go to a custom stereo shop and ask them..
Last edited by Myke Weinstein; 08-26-2020 at 06:45 AM.
08-26-2020, 04:49 PM
#23
ok so let’s try this being you know so much .
do you build car stereo for a living??
what kind of system do YOU have??
Lets just go with; I'm somebody who has been learning for years, and done several of my own systems. I researched and learned why things do what. Not sure why this matters any way. Where are you trying to go with this one?
You asked why I keep bringing up upgrading the battery.. well when you wire a amp it get wired to the alt of the battery??
I've already explained this. Why are you asking such a silly question? Your battery powers the electrical system, the alternator keeps the battery charged. Is this supposed to be some gotcha question you googled real quick before you posted?
The way you keep going on about the system drawing 83 amp off the alt is false cause ur system doesn’t draw direct from the alt it draws from the battery.
NOT ONCE did I say that BS anywhere. Do you not get it, or are you intentionally trying to make things up? What I said was, that if your electrical system draws more amperage than your alternator can make, then your electrical draw will start to drain your battery because your alternator can't keep up. You either then need to reduce the draw, or you continue draining the battery. Eventually your battery can lose all its stored energy. An alternator will keep your system charged while driving. A larger or extra battery does nothing but give you more amp hours. It will last longer if you sit there without the vehicle running, but its a pointless if you don't. (I really can't spell it out any better than that for you).
Your talking about a 950wrms stereo system. Most cars with a bose system are that powerful. All while running stock alt and bs wire. No custom shop will tell him that for 950watts of power he needs to do a alt ..
That's not right. If its RMS, you think the factory Bose system is near 2,000 watts? It sure as hell isn't. Those speakers are 8 ohms and running lower wattage. That entire system is only 2-300 watts max. You're just talking out of your ***.
most sub amps are bigger then that and it’s wired with a amp kit and that’s it ..
No. Most shops do not wire 2,000 watt amps with just an amp kit, and call it good.
you talk about me just talking bs u started to go on about wire cross section lol clown not all wire is the same u should know this if u do this for a living or are into car audio.. sky high 1/0 is as big as 2/0 welding cable .. it all depends on what company you get it from as to if it’s more copper or more shroud..
Are you talking about the shroud? Do you even know why that is? What point do you think you are even trying to make here; Lets just say that's true, so are you saying they need welding cable for their <1K watts? A company might make it bigger, but wouldn't make it smaller. I still would like to know what you think you are basing that comparison on, before I waste time with it.
so I’ll say it again
big 3 all 1/0 ( good to have period )
You didn't say that, I did. If you actually thought that, why don't you have it done?
1/0 from batty to back ( this is to only allow for upgrades done down the road as over building never hurts)
It won't hurt, but you say to do it because of down the road, yet you don't want to do what's needed now.
upgrade factory battery to something better
a North Star, xs power etc..( again this is over building for what your power levels are but it never hurts )
It doesn't serve any purpose going that big for this other than wasting money, and you are telling them not to worry about what they need.
He can even add a second battery as your truck should have a place near the fire wall for it.
WHY?? What for? There is not enough electrical draw to need one.
my knowledge in this is from years of building car audio for spl comps.
BS. You don't understand the basics of how the electrical system works. You don't know what a battery or an alternator does.
to the op if you think he is right then by all means waste 500-700 bucks on a mech man, brand x etc.. but what I’ll say is go to a custom stereo shop and ask them..
do you build car stereo for a living??
what kind of system do YOU have??
Lets just go with; I'm somebody who has been learning for years, and done several of my own systems. I researched and learned why things do what. Not sure why this matters any way. Where are you trying to go with this one?
You asked why I keep bringing up upgrading the battery.. well when you wire a amp it get wired to the alt of the battery??
I've already explained this. Why are you asking such a silly question? Your battery powers the electrical system, the alternator keeps the battery charged. Is this supposed to be some gotcha question you googled real quick before you posted?
The way you keep going on about the system drawing 83 amp off the alt is false cause ur system doesn’t draw direct from the alt it draws from the battery.
NOT ONCE did I say that BS anywhere. Do you not get it, or are you intentionally trying to make things up? What I said was, that if your electrical system draws more amperage than your alternator can make, then your electrical draw will start to drain your battery because your alternator can't keep up. You either then need to reduce the draw, or you continue draining the battery. Eventually your battery can lose all its stored energy. An alternator will keep your system charged while driving. A larger or extra battery does nothing but give you more amp hours. It will last longer if you sit there without the vehicle running, but its a pointless if you don't. (I really can't spell it out any better than that for you).
Your talking about a 950wrms stereo system. Most cars with a bose system are that powerful. All while running stock alt and bs wire. No custom shop will tell him that for 950watts of power he needs to do a alt ..
That's not right. If its RMS, you think the factory Bose system is near 2,000 watts? It sure as hell isn't. Those speakers are 8 ohms and running lower wattage. That entire system is only 2-300 watts max. You're just talking out of your ***.
most sub amps are bigger then that and it’s wired with a amp kit and that’s it ..
No. Most shops do not wire 2,000 watt amps with just an amp kit, and call it good.
you talk about me just talking bs u started to go on about wire cross section lol clown not all wire is the same u should know this if u do this for a living or are into car audio.. sky high 1/0 is as big as 2/0 welding cable .. it all depends on what company you get it from as to if it’s more copper or more shroud..
Are you talking about the shroud? Do you even know why that is? What point do you think you are even trying to make here; Lets just say that's true, so are you saying they need welding cable for their <1K watts? A company might make it bigger, but wouldn't make it smaller. I still would like to know what you think you are basing that comparison on, before I waste time with it.
so I’ll say it again
big 3 all 1/0 ( good to have period )
You didn't say that, I did. If you actually thought that, why don't you have it done?
1/0 from batty to back ( this is to only allow for upgrades done down the road as over building never hurts)
It won't hurt, but you say to do it because of down the road, yet you don't want to do what's needed now.
upgrade factory battery to something better
a North Star, xs power etc..( again this is over building for what your power levels are but it never hurts )
It doesn't serve any purpose going that big for this other than wasting money, and you are telling them not to worry about what they need.
He can even add a second battery as your truck should have a place near the fire wall for it.
WHY?? What for? There is not enough electrical draw to need one.
my knowledge in this is from years of building car audio for spl comps.
BS. You don't understand the basics of how the electrical system works. You don't know what a battery or an alternator does.
to the op if you think he is right then by all means waste 500-700 bucks on a mech man, brand x etc.. but what I’ll say is go to a custom stereo shop and ask them..
08-27-2020, 04:17 PM
#24
Geez, I'm afraid to get back in and reply to the Post I started!
But for the record, it was a very short time after the stereo upgrade before I had to replace the battery. It was an old battery, installed 10/06/16, was written on the top of the battery so I don't think the amps or the wires or the alternator killed it.
I did the Big 3 Upgrade and now I have a new AGM battery. I ran 4/0 cables from the battery to the amps and to ground, used 12 gauge speaker wires with butt connectors crimped and heat shrinked and the best RCA connectors I could find.
I would guess that my Alternator will go next since it is the original alternator, 145 Amp. When it does go I will replace it with a 160 Amp, I can't justify spending extra cash for a bigger alternator (180 - 225 - 250) since I work P/T at O'Reilly's and can get a new one for dirt cheap thru my employee discount. Right now its loud and it rocks, Pantera has never sounded so good screaming thru my speakers!!
Chad
But for the record, it was a very short time after the stereo upgrade before I had to replace the battery. It was an old battery, installed 10/06/16, was written on the top of the battery so I don't think the amps or the wires or the alternator killed it.
I did the Big 3 Upgrade and now I have a new AGM battery. I ran 4/0 cables from the battery to the amps and to ground, used 12 gauge speaker wires with butt connectors crimped and heat shrinked and the best RCA connectors I could find.
I would guess that my Alternator will go next since it is the original alternator, 145 Amp. When it does go I will replace it with a 160 Amp, I can't justify spending extra cash for a bigger alternator (180 - 225 - 250) since I work P/T at O'Reilly's and can get a new one for dirt cheap thru my employee discount. Right now its loud and it rocks, Pantera has never sounded so good screaming thru my speakers!!
Chad
10-21-2020, 08:26 AM
#25
Right on Chad!!
Your system is mild, big 3 and some decent cables running to and from your amps. That’s really all you need.
Caps (capacitors) were cool in the early 90s when we didn’t know any better.
Sounds like you got it rockin, and that’s all anyone cares about.
Also, being this is like 6 months old now, how is it holding up?
Thanks man,
-james
10-24-2020, 09:07 AM
#26
Its working great although I plan on changing out the Factory Bose Radio-DVD-NAV-CD player. Since I had to use an LC6 Channel Line Converter the sound on some music sounds muffled since I can no longer use the base/mid/treble controls on the radio. Pantera sounds good, Black Label Society is muffled, Lamb of God sounds good, Slayer is muffled. Even if I go old school with some Pat Benatar or April Wine one sounds distinctively better than the other.
So I am putting the Kenwood that is out of my old truck into the new truck. I liked the factory look of the GM radio but I CANNOT tolerate Slayer being muffled, that's just not American dammit!!
Chad
So I am putting the Kenwood that is out of my old truck into the new truck. I liked the factory look of the GM radio but I CANNOT tolerate Slayer being muffled, that's just not American dammit!!
Chad
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