GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

Just finished upgrading all my grounds, very pleased with how it turned out. Used 2/0 welding cable, tinned copper lugs, and shrink wrap with adhesive. Everything from Temco. Their hammer crimp tool is awesome. Only thing I could have done to make it more professional IMO was to put braided cover over the wires.

Now, for the part I'm more interested in. Curious if anyone disagrees with my mounting points.

1) Battery to factory ground spot on the frame. I'm not exactly thrilled with the mounting spot (it's shared with 2 other grounds). I would prefer to ground it to the frame in the engine bay near the shock mount but I didn't want to drill into the frame. I still may re-do it.

2) Alternator mount to battery

3) Alternator mount to firewall (body)

Last one to do obviously is to upgrade the battery to alternator cable. But I've read this isn't necessary and the grounds are more important. I already have the fuse holder for 1/0 (car audio 1/0 = 2/0 welding cable in terms of overall diameter including the sheath).

Also, installed Kicker 4 gauge wiring kit. Very nice kit for the price. very happy with it.

ILuvJDM

iTrader: (4)

You're on the right track. If your ground point is shared with other grounds, just make your 1/0 or 2/0 the first one to touch the frame and make sure it's clean. Then put the other factory grounds on top and you're done.

+ alternator to battery is important if you actually have a powerful system that needs more power demands or if you have large fuel pumps or something

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

Well, ran into a problem. I'm getting a lot of noise transmitted inside the cab from the firewall ground. Too much vibration from the engine. So I'll have to relocate that somewhere else.

The amp I got is only 900 watts, pulls 80 amps max, so I don't think it will be stressing the system.

ILuvJDM

iTrader: (4)

Put the firewall ground where the engine grounds to the firewall. There's a stud under the cowl near the brake booster. One for the hood, one for the engine. Choose the engine stud and you should be good.

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

That's the one I have it on, see pic above.

ILuvJDM

iTrader: (4)

I see now, but you ran the ground from the engine (alternator mount) to firewall, essentially making a ground loop. You need to go from battery directly. You want all three grounds to originate from the battery.

battery to frame
battery to firewall/body
battery to engine

hope this helps

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

I see. Thank you.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I agree and I also agree on the alternator to battery wire upgrade. Your truck came with a 105 amp alt and now has a 145. Anything to help transmit that 145 is a good thing.

Keep in mind without the system the alternator will run at times up to around 70 amps then add up to 80 from the amp, you'll be pushing it right up to it's limit, anything to help ease up on it is good.

Another way to look at it, you ran 4 gauge for something that pulls 80 amps yet have about a 4 gauge from the alternator that outputs almost double...