Battery getting old time for upgrade.
#11
TECH Junkie
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: At the dump with a clutch
Posts: 3,124
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Good to know about the alternators! What do you run in your truck to need all that power?
I really don't like the look of light bars they are to "Bro" for my taste I had one once and all it did was light up the dirt on my windshield totally pointless when mounted on the roof. Also the front bumper. I would however consider led pods they are just so expensive for good ones.
How much 1/0 welding wire are you going to use that stuff is not cheap!
I really don't like the look of light bars they are to "Bro" for my taste I had one once and all it did was light up the dirt on my windshield totally pointless when mounted on the roof. Also the front bumper. I would however consider led pods they are just so expensive for good ones.
How much 1/0 welding wire are you going to use that stuff is not cheap!
#12
TECH Fanatic
I run a full Class A audio system, 1200w 110v AC, CB radio with amp, Amateur radio, lights galore, high flow electric radiator fans, dual fuel pumps, soon to be electric water pump, plus any other vehicles I happen to be jumping. My idle power draw is 88A, average is 150A, full load the highest I've seen is 270A.
If your light bar got your dirt on your windshield, it was the wrong lightbar for the application. Only use spot bars on top, flood bars are generally pointless except for area lighting. But if you really like having KC style lighting, it's quite easy to refit halogen KC Daylighters with HID (I ran 80w HID in my KCs before I picked up a spot LED bar). HID just doesn't lend itself to rapid light output, each and every cycle will take about 1 minute to reach max output in a high watt platform. Here's what 2 of mine looked like at noon:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102.../img0083lc.jpg
I'm going with this wire:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=AQM8XQPCVFUN3
If your light bar got your dirt on your windshield, it was the wrong lightbar for the application. Only use spot bars on top, flood bars are generally pointless except for area lighting. But if you really like having KC style lighting, it's quite easy to refit halogen KC Daylighters with HID (I ran 80w HID in my KCs before I picked up a spot LED bar). HID just doesn't lend itself to rapid light output, each and every cycle will take about 1 minute to reach max output in a high watt platform. Here's what 2 of mine looked like at noon:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102.../img0083lc.jpg
I'm going with this wire:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=AQM8XQPCVFUN3
Last edited by Suburbazine; 06-20-2016 at 05:10 PM. Reason: wattage on inverter was wrong
#13
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: At the dump with a clutch
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It was a flood not a spot and a cheapo china one to. wont make that mistake again. I kinda don't like the look of them ether light bars just scream "bro truck" to me
i really like these lights and i want to mount them kinda inside/behind a tube bumper like this so they are protected and cognito.
You have some serious electronics how do you have all the wires run? is it super clean?
thats a really good deal on wire never thought of amazon!
i really like these lights and i want to mount them kinda inside/behind a tube bumper like this so they are protected and cognito.
You have some serious electronics how do you have all the wires run? is it super clean?
thats a really good deal on wire never thought of amazon!
#14
TECH Fanatic
Underhood isn't super clean around the battery, I just run wires wherever I can keep them away from heat. The lighting is all clean though, I think I have a 5" run of visible wiring coming onto the push bumper.
In cabin is super clean, no visible wires aside from my brake controller and T/A controller on the knee panel, everything run under the floor or under the door sill covers. I removed the middle row seating and built a tray for the amps with a hinged lid on top, I keep all my stuff neat and don't sacrifice any cargo space.
All the junk to the left is just spare wiring left over from setting up:
In cabin is super clean, no visible wires aside from my brake controller and T/A controller on the knee panel, everything run under the floor or under the door sill covers. I removed the middle row seating and built a tray for the amps with a hinged lid on top, I keep all my stuff neat and don't sacrifice any cargo space.
All the junk to the left is just spare wiring left over from setting up:
#15
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
My battery is on its last leg. I just ordered an XS 4800. Lookin forward to installing it.
I'm also installing a small light bar and new headlights.
Hey Sub,
Curious about your rear wheels/tires. Are they H2 wheels? What tires? They look quite a bit wider than stock. Do you have any specs on them?
Thanks
I'm also installing a small light bar and new headlights.
Hey Sub,
Curious about your rear wheels/tires. Are they H2 wheels? What tires? They look quite a bit wider than stock. Do you have any specs on them?
Thanks
#16
TECH Fanatic
My battery is on its last leg. I just ordered an XS 4800. Lookin forward to installing it.
I'm also installing a small light bar and new headlights.
Hey Sub,
Curious about your rear wheels/tires. Are they H2 wheels? What tires? They look quite a bit wider than stock. Do you have any specs on them?
Thanks
I'm also installing a small light bar and new headlights.
Hey Sub,
Curious about your rear wheels/tires. Are they H2 wheels? What tires? They look quite a bit wider than stock. Do you have any specs on them?
Thanks
General Grabber UHP 275/55 R17 109V
#19
TECH Resident
I just picked up a Northstar battery to replace my 4 year old Optima red top. Very happy with the Northstar they have had great reviews on line and have several YouTube videos comparing it with other brands. It uses 99.99% pure lead and supposedly are military grade and suppliers. Plus being made in the USA is a big plus!
My first Optima lasted 9 years and still started my truck but was getting weak. The one I just replaced has given me problems for the last two years. I would have replaced it under warranty but didn't want to own another one since their quality has suffered so much since moving their manufacturing to Mexico.
My first Optima lasted 9 years and still started my truck but was getting weak. The one I just replaced has given me problems for the last two years. I would have replaced it under warranty but didn't want to own another one since their quality has suffered so much since moving their manufacturing to Mexico.
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