5.3L, want more power!!!!!!!!!
#21
You will be very, very unhappy with a cam that pulls to 7500 and only adds 60HP. No bottom end and probably very high on the duration, maybe a 236+?
Do yourself a favor and get yourself the same cam I have in my signature. It will suit your needs far better and will pull out to 6500. I went from 226rwhp to 300rwhp @ 6200rpm on that cam and tune alone.
$750 should get you the cam ($400), springs ($300ish) and pushrods ($50ish). Spend the rest on a good tune, dyno tune would be preferable for a cam swap.
400RWHP is unrealistic for $1000. I might not have made it there with $5300 total into it, not counting what it took to build and swap a 4L80E onto it.
These are my dyno sheets from the cam swap (these precede the current modifications):
Difference on with cam and no cam (The low run was on tune alone):

Final outcome:
Do yourself a favor and get yourself the same cam I have in my signature. It will suit your needs far better and will pull out to 6500. I went from 226rwhp to 300rwhp @ 6200rpm on that cam and tune alone.
$750 should get you the cam ($400), springs ($300ish) and pushrods ($50ish). Spend the rest on a good tune, dyno tune would be preferable for a cam swap.
400RWHP is unrealistic for $1000. I might not have made it there with $5300 total into it, not counting what it took to build and swap a 4L80E onto it.
These are my dyno sheets from the cam swap (these precede the current modifications):
Difference on with cam and no cam (The low run was on tune alone):

Final outcome:
Last edited by Suburbazine; May 14, 2013 at 10:05 PM.
#23
listen to what everyone here is telling ya bud, you got a lot of truck to move and that cam will not help that at all. look around at peoples signatures and see how its working for em. Trial and error isnt something you want to go thru if your on a budget so its always best to ask around and see what has worked and what hasnt.
#24
Actually... it sounds like this kid doesn't want to listen. Let him put that donkey dick cam in there, more than likely it will make the thing so slow off of a red light that he'll listen to us the second time around.
In for the disappointment.
In for the disappointment.
#25
I was told that it works with the stock stall converter, its "basic RPM range" is 1000 to 6700, and the cam is 360$, while the valve springs are 303$, and i am about to order a pair of shorty headers, the Part Number for the cam is "CCA-54-451-11" that is the cam that "Comp Cams" said is made to "awaken" the 5.3L. i am going off of what a guy that does this every day says. And i am about to order some "Pacesetter Short Tube Headers" for 204$ which hopefully will make it sound better, everyone says, they gained about 10HP but hey, every little bit helps
#27
#28
I was told that it works with the stock stall converter, its "basic RPM range" is 1000 to 6700, and the cam is 360$, while the valve springs are 303$, and i am about to order a pair of shorty headers, the Part Number for the cam is "CCA-54-451-11" that is the cam that "Comp Cams" said is made to "awaken" the 5.3L. i am going off of what a guy that does this every day says. And i am about to order some "Pacesetter Short Tube Headers" for 204$ which hopefully will make it sound better, everyone says, they gained about 10HP but hey, every little bit helps
#29
I had a TSP 2.5 heads milled to 57cc for higher compression, a pretty decent cam and all the supporting mods and only put down 389/366 with my old LM7. Hitting 400rwhp will take the absolute perfect set up or FI.
#30
Ok... now that we have the cam specs, and the typo fixed, I'm a lot less aggravated about this build. That'll be a decent cam with the stock converter and gears. I think 60RWHP is somewhat unrealistic from it, but may be possible with a spot on tune. I wouldn't do shorty headers, even the cheap ebay long tubes will help you more, and will help you get more out of your cam swap.




