Thats the point. You cant use already stretched bolts for machining. Thinking that way will get you in trouble. But its your call I guess.

BTW, its not that I am against TTY Bolts for holding power, I know they hold power, its the machining process and how you get there. If you want to cut corners because you are only looking at things from a power stand point, then you should do some more research. My two cents.

Rick

 

Like I said before, I was consernd about the maching process with the main caps and tty bolts. I was thinking of going studs just for that reason, but I've been told by "almost" every engine builder I've asked, the movement in the caps after you replace the tty bolts with new is unmasureable. Plus going with studs in the caps will require line boring. I'm a big fan of not have a lot of bearing mass. So if the machine shop finds I need a line bore.. then I'll go studs in the main caps, if not I'll go TTY's, just don't want a bigger bearing if I can help it.

 

In all the years that I have line honed, not bored, I have never had an issue with any motor. Matter of fact the tolerances turn out better. You are not going to need to line bore the mains, only line hone when you put studs in it. Better call around some to other shops. There are a few bearings that almost drop right in like the factory ones. You want the extra space on a boosted motor. If not, you will be smashing those bearings real quick.

Line boring is when you have really bad caps and mains that you need to put alot of correction into.

Rick

 

a few old update pictures.
I finally got my printer hooked back up so I can up-load these picture of the engine getting preped for the long drive to utah....


I have A ton of money in tools and it kills me when I don't bring the right tools home from work, but here is a quick and easy way to pull some engine plugs...
BTW. if you look close, you can see the wear in the cylinder from the brokin number 5 piston...

 

hey guys whats the torque plate for ? when boreing out a block, my local machine shop dosen't has one and they have build some ls engines and they seem to hold pretty good thou...

 

They simulate the heads being installed on the block. This helps cut a strait bore as the block deforms slightly under the added force of the head studs/bolts. Many, Many, high horse power engine have been built with-out torque plates. It only becomes very crucial when running stainless steal rings or using a block that is more prone to deform. The LSx series engine blocks are very strong, but I’m unsure how critical it is for torque plates. This being the internet, expect everyone to tell you torque plates are required. For that, it is quickly becoming S.O.P. With good reason, there isn’t anything negative about torque plates other than finding a machine shop that has them….

 

Here is a quick update...

Now I'm spending engine money on my trans (Trans thread) I have a bit of a tighter budget...
Pistons are ordered, I talked to Brian at Wiseco, he helped me chose the right pistons and wrist pins (tappered tool steel). I'm just waiting for the pistons to get here, then the build will continue.....

Here are a few shots of another part of the engine build

 

If you are using the GM bolts I would certainly recomend buying them in the kit from GM then, it is much cheaper that way. I have the part numbers for those not up on the head bolt kits.

 

Send me those chunks of Aluminum.......

 

PARTS ARE HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

well some.....

Check out those HUGE TURBO DISHED Pistons





Bearings thanks to Stoichiometric, and pistons courtesy of Brian Nutter at Wiseco


All other parts will be ordered tomarrow