I had a 3 foot pipe wrench holding the yoke while I tightened the nut with a 1" drive ratchet with a pipe on the end for leverage until i felt the punion slack go away. Then checked the drag with a beam type 1/4" drive torque wrench (0-60 in lbs) after I tightened the nut about every 3 to 5 degrees until it was within spec. I was shooting for the higher end of the spec as it will loosen with wear. Also, a new pinion seal will add 2 to 3 in lbs of drag. so if you're over by 1 or 2 in lbs I wouldn't worry about it. Is that what you were looking for?

Also, check the drag while it's moving not when starting to rotate the pinion. This requires the carrier to be removed.

 

I'm not trying to disassemble my rear end. And I don't want to install a new crush sleeve.

I've read plenty of stuff and seen videos of people replacing pinion seals and simply marking the pinion/nut so it goes back exactly the same as it was. But I need to install a completely new yoke and nut. Others have simply said torque to 100 or 150 lb/ft (less than would affect the crush sleeve), loctite, and call it a day.

 

i typically run it on with impact checking drag, when drag is within spec i back nut off loctite or ive dented the nut over after running it in

 

You checking the torque spec with the wheels on or the carrier alone?

 

carrier alone, you should be fine honestly just swapping it out and checking drag with a breaker bar

if breaker bar drops way to fast then snug it some more, do this till it barely free falls, also since basically reusing the crush sleeve then hit it a hair more so it seats again and wont back off

 

And should I re-use the nut and washer that's already on there? The nut that came with the pinion is one of the triangular/locking style nuts, so I'm sure that will affect the torque.

If both the new and old pinions have the same dimensions then I should be able to just mark the nut in relation to the pinion gear and the number of threads showing and tighten it to exactly the same point I would think. Really don't need to screw this up.

 

If ya have new rhen use that one as it will lock in nicely just do as stated tighen it till you have some drag


Set breaker about 1 or 11 oclock and watch it drop...if drops to fast snug up some more...you want some drag on it

It should require your finger to allow it to drop...anymore force and you went to tight

If happens to be to tight back nut off some and smack nut with mallet to push it back some...hopefully you dont need to do rhis as it will upset the crush sleeve

Ive built quite a few rears over the years and have always done mine for my trucks

Youll be fine

 

To be perfectly honest George, I don't have a lot of room to get a breaker bar in there between my exhaust and the gas tank. I was planning to use my impact for the loosening and tightening.

I really don't prefer to use that subjective method as that's probably for more experienced folk. Something like a torque value or trying to reinstall the nut at the same position is more objective and would be more comfortable for me.

 

Well torque value will require the same space as breaker bar wince youll need torque wrench

You could disconnect shocks and let your rear hang down with chassis in air...this could give you room you need

 

Think I came to my conclusion, right or wrong.

I'm going to buy a beam type inch-pound torque wrench and check the force it takes to rotate the pinion now. Then I'm going to shoot for that with the new pinion and yoke and try and tighten the nut to the same location with respect to the pinion gear. The nut Denny's sent me and the one on my pinion now look identical.