Truck is undergoing surgery again.

Old turbo kit is off. Everything looked good on the kit with the exception of a small hole I found in the WG crossover flex tube.

New T6 kit should be able 1-2 weeks out from Kyle and I'm still waiting on a shipping notice for the turbo from Forced Inductions. But I'm in no hurry here. It's still in the upper 80s low 90s here...too hot for good racing.

Since I had all the piping off, I figured there was no better time than now to change torque converters. From day one I wasn't happy with this converter, but I worked with it because I didn't want to physically do the labor. Anyways, bright old me thought it would be a GREAT idea to pull the trans/converter without draining the fluid! As soon as I pulled the dipstick tube out, fluid started coming out until it looked like I had a blood bath in the garage. Partially due to filling fluid to the case and the trans being at a slight angle. Once I stopped all that business I was able to pull the converter. No sign of any damage to any components of the converter or front shaft. I'm really dreading reinstalling the converter however. Getting this one on in the first place on the billet front shaft was extremely difficult and that was with the trans on the ground; now the trans is on rollers on the trans jack. Should be interesting. CircleD is claiming they can restall the converter to have an 800-1000 rpm shift drop as opposed to the 500 I'm seeing now. I'm a bit skeptical given the experience of some others I've asked, but I'll give them one shot to correct this. Them being local added incentive.

 

I hope it works out the way you want. Maybe I missed it, what turbo you going with?

 

cast S480/96. Hopefully should be good for a G to the wheels, or about 150-200 more than I'm making now.

For anyone curious, these turbos start out life as a standard S475 semi truck turbo and then FI replaces the 75mm compressor wheel with the 80mm cast wheel. The compressor cover is then CNC'd to fit the larger wheel.

 

Good stuff!!

Make sure Chris is well aware of the new power to come!! I would have it stalled to a 1B if you are staying 258mm. Challenge him to build it as tight as he can.

What is surprising is that your 60' and MPH indicate that you aren't getting off the line as well as you could for the power you make... I don't mean that to offend your 60', but to compliment you on your MPH. I would think a tighter converter will only exaggerate that.

Also... I doubt you have a stock input shaft within reach but I did some measuring on mine when I had the trans out last. The problem we experience with the billet shaft is that the O ring groove isn't cut as deep as the stock input. Check the O ring to ensure that its still in good shape. I actually shaved mine... press to fit if you will lol.

I put in a slightly thinner O ring and the torque converter had a perfectly snug fit, as it was designed to.

 

As far as the 60' I was intentionally leaving lazy to ensure I hooked up. I don't have the confidence yet in the track or my suspension to launch full bore. The way I've been launching was to brake boost to about 4 psi at around 45-50% TPS and then just release the brake on green while keeping the throttle at the same position. Once I knew I was hooked up I would mat it, but by that time I was already almost out of 1st gear. I've got 1.63 a couple times already with slightly more boost, so I know an aggressive launch should be in the 1.5x range soundly.

 

Just curious why you swapped back from 5 lug? Ive been trying to debate on whether to buy bogarts or convert to 5 lug and do something different. Truck looks good though, you happen to have a picture of it from the side or something with the bogarts on?

 

I didn't want to swap the front to 5 lug and I still may tow/haul stuff from time to time so I want the strength of stock wheels.

Also, shank lug nuts are pieces of ****.

 

Did you check the O ring on your input shaft?

 

Nope. I'm not getting back under the POS until the converter is ready to go in. I've had enough trans fluid for 1 day.

Also, I won't be modifying the o-ring. I've got to imagine it's like that for a reason and also Jake's billet shafts are proprietary so it may not be the same as yours anyways.

 

The O ring is like that for a reason, correct. The groove in the factory input shaft is also a certain diameter for a reason. The diameter of the groove in my billet input shaft... I doubt its bigger for a reason. The converters are designed with a certain O ring diameter in mind. If the groove they sit in is not deep enough, the O ring will have a wider diameter as well. My O ring was literally shaved in half getting my last converter on. I had to tip the trans right side up, and use a rubber mallet to get it in place. I'll go out on a limb here and say its that last of the 3 'clicks' that makes the converter hard to get properly seated. Exactly where the O ring comes into play.

I'm not suggesting it to make your life easier. I am suggesting it so that it will operate as designed. I worked with Sonnax on this one... they laughed, once again, at craftsmanship of "good" aftermarket parts.

Take a look at the O ring, and don't be surprised to see it ripped.