Well we know you turned it at least 75-7700 Rpm for an extended amount of time and had to have been in some pretty serious valve float. Each time a spring is floated it loses pressure a major float like 7500 + for a few seconds would have to damage to the springs. Even if this turns out not to be the prob you will benefit from the new springs.

 

Here's some belated pictures of my suspension and what not. I Haven't been on my computer much so I wasn't able to upload any pics and vids that I've had stored on my iPhone for about a week now.

Design and built by Stoichiometric and the welding work was done by WildeRacing. They know the what's and why's better than I do but all I know is it 30,000 times better than my old set-up.

Best pictures I have of it from far away, consists of two "Truck arms/bars" that triangulate as far forward and up as possible to a crossmemeber that was fabbed up behind the cab. Also a Pan-hard bar that is welded to the drivers side frame rail and the passenger side axle tube. And adjustable Fox Coil-over shocks.



Passenger side:


Drivers side...


Pan Hard Bar:


Arms/Bars heading back to the Coil overs:



Heading forward:



Bigger is better!


Here's a couple shots of the travel of the rear end, in all these pictures the compressed wheel has another 2-3 inches of travel until it touches the fender:

 

As far as feel and feedback goes. During the Slalom at the Truckin Throwdown I tried my best to upset the rear end but I never could. I got up to 65mph and the rear end was still very very settled, I wanted to go faster but I couldn't turn the wheel fast enough. Last year during the same event I lost control and spun the rear-end out and almost took out a camera man, that was at 55mph. I'm gonna have to upgrade my steering if I want to test the limits of the rear-end in the slalom. On the road course my problem was understeer under heavy braking, I never was able to swing the back out. Granted I didn't have much power to play with but everytime I'd accelerate out of a turn past the apex the back end would just push me along and never walked itself out. Does a pretty decent job of squatting under hard acceleration but until I put some real slicks back there and go to a prepped track I don't know how well it will do.
When I can get the engine hiccups figured out I really want to push the rear-end to see when it starts to lets go.

 

I had a small exhaust leak prior to the mile, and afterwards...it got bigger! Swapped out the exhaust manifold gaskets and I was leaking on 6 of the 8 cylinders. Reason being is that the header flange is smaller than stock, so the exhaust bolts bottom out in the head before tightening down on the manifold. I corrected that last summer by stacking a couple washers between the bolt head and the flange but when I had a shop wrap the exhaust while I was at sea they took the manifolds off and when they put them back on they didn't use any washers or use shorter bolts.


So this is what I ran the mile with!





That was the drivers side, the passenger side wasn't blown out but all 4 cylinders showed signs of leaking. Best part is the turbo spooled alot faster afterwards and that damn exhaust tick was gone!

 

Here's the best video I have of what the truck sounds like, took this during stop and go traffic.

 

The suspension looks awesome! That is some crazy articulation there. I hope you get your truck running right I would like to see what it can really do with all the work you have into it.

 

Awesome suspension work!

 

 

When you figure out how to upgrade the steering PLEASE let me know. I've been looking around and asking on many forums but no one has any input.

 

I wonder if there is a way to adapt the high ratio steering box out of something like my S10 xtreme into a fullsize???

Going from my 1500 to my s10 is hard with how much more you have to move the wheel to turn the 1500 compaired to the s10. Get in the S10 and sneeze and you almost go off the road