Spoolin's attempt to Spool...
Dec 24, 2010 | 01:50 AM
#141
Thread Starter
GFYS and STFU
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From: Here and sometimes there too.
They exit each side, they Y righ after the tranny. Looks cool on cold mornings when it's coming out!! Lol
Dec 24, 2010 | 05:35 AM
#143
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GFYS and STFU
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From: Here and sometimes there too.
If your asking about the older system, the exhaust went around the tank and the frame.
If your asking about how I'm gonna route this system post 133 answers that question.
If your asking about how I'm gonna route this system post 133 answers that question.
Dec 24, 2010 | 09:03 AM
#144
I've conceded the fact that I'm gonna need to put an additional crossmember behind the tank. I really shouldn't of cut it out in the first place but big whoop, I'll just put one back in. As far as it being removable, I could but also the tank drops straight down so whether it's permanent or not doesn't really matter too much. But that would make things easier when I tear into the truck, I'll keep it in mind.
When I did my fuel cell install I boxed the frame at the new x-member points for the extra rgidity and security if I would ever be rear ended, just thinking out loud.
Dec 25, 2010 | 05:27 AM
#145
PS...when ur kids are teenagers, u find urself waiting for them to wake up oin Christmas morning!!!!
Dec 25, 2010 | 11:30 AM
#146
I think you should add some kind of brace back there. I don't think the tank and bumper are enough and I don't think you should rely on them. I have seen production cars ( crown vics ) burst into flames after being rear ended when the tank gets ruptured in a rear collision. Its not going to add much weight and it will give you a little piece of mind.
Dec 25, 2010 | 10:34 PM
#147
Dec 26, 2010 | 01:34 PM
#148
Was looking through my photobucket for pics to help Atomic on his tcase problem and I came across of a pic of how I did the engine/80e install by myself
Thats when I was testing to see if it could be done, later on I did it with a complete longblock. The truck wasnt jacked up but since your truck is a lowered 2wd you would have to jack your truck up some to get the ground clearance under the trans tunnel.
Thats when I was testing to see if it could be done, later on I did it with a complete longblock. The truck wasnt jacked up but since your truck is a lowered 2wd you would have to jack your truck up some to get the ground clearance under the trans tunnel.
Dec 30, 2010 | 05:02 PM
#149
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GFYS and STFU
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Here and sometimes there too.
So, not much in the name of progress but I did manage to get up off my lazy *** and get a few things done. I took care of that elbow that was hitting the Steering rack...
Ended up dropping the steering rack just a smidgen, enough to be able to unscrew the elbow from the bottom of the pan...
And put a plug in it and JB welded it on the threads and after it was in, just in case.
I've since cleaned the pan up with some Brake-lean and it's looking all shiny and new again. All the gunk that was down there happened when I hauled the engine to my house, was a dirty trailer.
BTW the steering rack had to be torqued down to 132 ft/lbs!
When I got that tightened back down I re-torqued the engine mount bolts just to see if that elbow really did get in the way and I was able to get a good turn and a half out of some of the bolts.
Ended up dropping the steering rack just a smidgen, enough to be able to unscrew the elbow from the bottom of the pan...
And put a plug in it and JB welded it on the threads and after it was in, just in case.
I've since cleaned the pan up with some Brake-lean and it's looking all shiny and new again. All the gunk that was down there happened when I hauled the engine to my house, was a dirty trailer.
BTW the steering rack had to be torqued down to 132 ft/lbs!
When I got that tightened back down I re-torqued the engine mount bolts just to see if that elbow really did get in the way and I was able to get a good turn and a half out of some of the bolts.
