jebcamaro

iTrader: (26)

Hey folks!

The title suggests something quite wicked is being built, rather I'm putting together a fairly mild truck.

I just like the title

Any rate I'll give a few details of what this is all about. I've always like the 90's style trucks and once purchased one new way back in 1993. Loved that truck, but newer technology won out and it was traded off for newer vehicles. A few months ago I said I'm tired of dreaming about owning another, so I jumped on one I found for sale on ebay. Of course, the truck was not all that it was made out to be, so I decided to just start tearing the thing down and build it up the way I want.

This build will take a few months to complete, but here it is...

1994 Yukon GT 2dr

What I've done or am working on now

14 bolt semi-float 6 lug rear differential with 4.11 gears and TrueTrac posi. I found this under a 98 express van. Someone had already taken the factory chunk from it, but it still had everything I wanted. It had the axles and pinion still there. Original pinion allowed me to get a base line by using the factory shim stack when setting up the rear. I've had to cut off all the factory brackets and use brackets from RuffStuff Specialties along with new reverse mount u-bolts.

I've installed Offroad Design shackle flip kit.

I've been waiting for a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit (finally received Friday) and I'll rebuild the transfer case while I'm in there. This is to eliminate some issues when running 6" lift and the short factory driveshaft. I'll be ordering a double CV rear driveshaft after I get the transfer case reinstalled.

Truck came with a Ranch 6" lift kit

I've installed 35" Toyo MT's with 20x12 wheels

It has original 350 with nearly 200,000 miles on it. Runs excellent, but puffs a little smoke at startup. Jasper 4L60e with about 4000 miles on it.

I've went through the truck trying to make it mechanically sound. I haven't reconditioned any finishes though and it needs it. Undercarriage and frame has a film of surface rust on them. No cancerous rust, but needs addressed. Body has a few dings here and there and paint needs to be redone. This will all be taken care of soon enough. Probably later this year.

First thing of order is to build a new motor and part of the reason for this thread.

I have started a LS3 stroker build.

New LS3 block
Mast Motorsports Cathedral port 245 heads
Lunati Voodoo 4" stroker crank with H-beam rods
LS3 rockers with upgraded trunions
TSP Patrick G spec'd custom cam...233/240 .629”/.615” 114 LSA +4 advance
Fast LSXRT 102 intake
I haven't decided on PCM/wiring yet.


Part of my reasoning for this thread is to help answer some questions. I'll soon ask them. I'll get some pictures up shortly.

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a cool build.

Just a FYI, the LSXRT intake manifold isn't worth the power to dollar ratio. You won't be flowing enough air for a 102mm TB to be usable and it won't be singing at 5,500rpm+ every single day where that intake is made to shine.

jebcamaro

iTrader: (26)

Thanks for the heads up. I think, though, it would serve better in a larger cubic inch engine such as mine than a smaller one. Of course, I'm sure my engine build would work well with a stock truck intake, but this build is a bit more radical.

Also, the stock intake is hideous looking

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

I keep my hood closed LOL.

hunterbohanan23

Sounds like a nice build!

jebcamaro

iTrader: (26)

Nothing has really been going on with the build other than accumulating parts still. I have everything for the engine build now. I just need to drop it all off at the machine shop.

I have picked up 99-06 disc brakes setup for the truck as well as gmt800 spindles to mount the front calipers along with the correct taper ream for the ball joint. The rear I picked up some aluminum spacers to mount the caliper mount.

I am having a difficult time on finding what would be the correct wiring/ecu setup. I'm running NA and have no desire to go forced induction for this engine. I prefer to spend as little as possible, but will spend what I need to in order to get the best setup.

I'm looking at factory setup, Fast EZ EFI and XFI, Holley Dominator. I do need trans control as well.

What would you all recommend?

LPCWS6

Something wicked comes this way from me too. My built started with a bunch of green chilli's and a big pile of refried beans! I can tell it's going to be nasty!

Sorry I couldn't resist, carry on!

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

What crank trigger did you go with, 24x or 58x?

I've used HP Tuners for years so I'd suggest a stock computer/wire harness to use with HP Tuners. A 24x build is easier to learn on than a 58x as those use more advanced controllers and can be picky with what transmission combo you run. A early 2000's truck computer that is drive by cable would work good in my eyes.

The holley stuff is really nice too but costs 4x as much.

jebcamaro

iTrader: (26)

The crank came with the 58x installed, but I have bought a 24x wheel to replace the 58x with if I need to.

I do not have any tuning experience and that is why I've been leaning more towards systems such as Holley as they have self-tuning capabilities as the OE system does not.

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

Gotcha, but still know that you will still need to learn to tune somewhat. It can't self tune everything for you, for sure it will help but you still have to be the one to input changes and adjust the tune as needed.

Or pay a shop to tune the whole thing and pick the computer/software.