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Project Kermit

Old Oct 8, 2009 | 03:47 PM
  #891  
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Originally Posted by Spoolin
Hey...

-As far as the brakes go they are 6 piston front's on 16" rotors made by wilwood for our trucks. Rear's I believe are 4 pistons on 14" rotors, same deal with wilwood. They come as a package called the big brake kit.
-Rims are SS rims yet, they are powdercoated a Flat black. Tires are 50 series Nitto's.
-Drop is a mystery to me, it's kind of a mix of parts from various companies (DJM, bilstein, etc...) so it's a little odd ball in number but it's between a 2/4 and a 3/6. And the rear is C-notched which accounts for the drop back there.
Thanks for the info on the "brakes". Just reread my post and realized my dumb *** can't spell, lol.

So the series is what gives you the side wall right? I know its a ratio thing, so do you just have some really wide tires?

How hard is it to do a C-notch? Are there small ones that don't effect the bed? At what point to you just have to notch it?

Thanks
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 06:08 PM
  #892  
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I didn't want to mention anything about the spelling since your such a new guy! Didn't want to scare ya off so soon!
I'm no tire guru but they are quite small tread wise at only 265. I plan on going 305's here shortly but for now these still have life on them and don't see a need to upgrade for no reason. The full rating is 265/50/R20 which I think the 50 is the series or height of the tire sidewall measure from the edge of the rim, the higher the number the more sidewall you have, and the R20 is the diameter of the tire opening or the size of rim it will fit on.
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 06:10 PM
  #893  
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stfu get in your frog and drive!
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 06:14 PM
  #894  
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I forgot about your last question, C-notch is something you do to the frame in order to lower the rear end yet still keep stock suspension travel so your not always hitting the bump stops. Looks like this, (as you can find if you search around this thread)...





It doesn't effect what you do to your bed in the least bit.
Hint: go to your "UserCP", then your "Edit Options" page and set the amount of posts per page to 40, it will reduce this thread from 92 pages to only 23 pages and it will be alot easier to sift though large threads!
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 06:17 PM
  #895  
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Originally Posted by trever1t
stfu get in your frog and drive!
I just got back from doing donuts in the parking lot of a GM dealership that was across the street from my house. The Parts department was full of ****** and ******** when they were there so I gave them a farewell send-off! It's now gonna be a Nissan dealership!
I'm gonna go test drive a GTR everyday!!

And I ran down to another dealership today to pick up a new rear seal for my tranny. So Kermit and I have been having lots of fun!!
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 10:34 PM
  #896  
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Originally Posted by Spoolin
I just got back from doing donuts in the parking lot of a GM dealership that was across the street from my house. The Parts department was full of ****** and ******** when they were there so I gave them a farewell send-off! It's now gonna be a Nissan dealership!
I'm gonna go test drive a GTR everyday!!

And I ran down to another dealership today to pick up a new rear seal for my tranny. So Kermit and I have been having lots of fun!!
All lies without video proof
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 11:04 PM
  #897  
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Originally Posted by Spoolin
I forgot about your last question, C-notch is something you do to the frame in order to lower the rear end yet still keep stock suspension travel so your not always hitting the bump stops. Looks like this, (as you can find if you search around this thread)...





It doesn't effect what you do to your bed in the least bit.
Hint: go to your "UserCP", then your "Edit Options" page and set the amount of posts per page to 40, it will reduce this thread from 92 pages to only 23 pages and it will be alot easier to sift though large threads!
Thanks for the pic's. I'm used to seeing the trucks in the mag's that have it up into the bed with the wheel wells flush with the top of the bed. Didn't want to do that but what you have would work just fine. I think I'm just used to looking at 22's. I went back and looked at the vid again and the tires have a little more side wall then I thought but I think it's about the same look of a 45 series on a 22", at least without seeing it in person.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 12:24 AM
  #898  
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Your thinking of something called Tubbing. Difference than C-notch. I think your putting way too much thought into the tire thing. Pick a rim that you like (IMO don't go bigger than 22) than find a tire that fits your style of driving. If you drive on streets and like speed racer get some lower series tires, if you do some crappy roads with an occasional gravel or dirt driveway/road get some thicker walls. The Drop is what makes or breaks a look IMO. Also if you don't plan on getting a tune anytime soon you might wanna stick with a tire that's stock height so your speed won't be off.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 12:24 AM
  #899  
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Spoolin, heard about your setup when I was down there today. I was curious of your full specs and told I could find them on here. Solid numbers out of that setup with that low of a CR. You can tell on that 5.3 graph how much a dynojet inflates numbers. +1 for Justin @ Blackbear, awesome tuning capabilities. I've had my truck tuned by him a few times and every time it turns out great.
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Old Oct 9, 2009 | 12:27 AM
  #900  
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Justin was definitely worth the wait!
How did you do today? There was another guy who got a tune today and he told me he was really excited with how it all turned out and his truck felt really strong!
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