Project "Blown HD" my 6/8 drop/shortblock/heads/cam/blower/tranny install
Dec 20, 2006 | 10:08 PM
#843
TECH Addict
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,515
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From: Olathe, KS
I didn't catch what lower pulley you said you were running, but just FYI and for future reference for those that don't know, this is how to calculate blower RPM....
Lower Dia / Upper Dia = Pulley ratio
Pulley ratio x Engine RPM = Blower RPM
You can plug in any value for engine RPM and it will tell you how fast the blower is spinning at that RPM.
I don't know the max on the 122's, but I know on the old 112's bout the most you could run before you really hit a wall was 16-17k, and even then, you better be intercooled to run it. IAT's were thru the charts at that level.
Lower Dia / Upper Dia = Pulley ratio
Pulley ratio x Engine RPM = Blower RPM
You can plug in any value for engine RPM and it will tell you how fast the blower is spinning at that RPM.
I don't know the max on the 122's, but I know on the old 112's bout the most you could run before you really hit a wall was 16-17k, and even then, you better be intercooled to run it. IAT's were thru the charts at that level.
Dec 21, 2006 | 01:51 PM
#845
quick update:
picked up the drive-shafts from Oceanside Driveline this morning; glad I took them in, they said they were pretty good/close stock but now they are perfect. So that's pretty-much it for all the balance work, I should be good from the crank damper back to the rear-end.
Something I learned about the stock 3/4 ton Dana setup is they can only be timed "one way" so its impossible to assemble them incorrectly or "out of time"
Sidenote: I dont remember if I mentioned it earlier, but look to the LS7 to source a new rear main seal if/when needed. They are not the old two lip going in opposite directions design, the lip on the LS7 seal only goes in one direction which lowers the chance of installing it incorrectly.
picked up the drive-shafts from Oceanside Driveline this morning; glad I took them in, they said they were pretty good/close stock but now they are perfect. So that's pretty-much it for all the balance work, I should be good from the crank damper back to the rear-end.
Something I learned about the stock 3/4 ton Dana setup is they can only be timed "one way" so its impossible to assemble them incorrectly or "out of time"
Sidenote: I dont remember if I mentioned it earlier, but look to the LS7 to source a new rear main seal if/when needed. They are not the old two lip going in opposite directions design, the lip on the LS7 seal only goes in one direction which lowers the chance of installing it incorrectly.
Last edited by moregrip; Dec 21, 2006 at 01:58 PM.
Dec 21, 2006 | 02:02 PM
#847
Originally Posted by 8ALTNG
I see a NOS fogger in there...............when did nitrous become part of this build??????
thats just a cool -6AN Y fitting; cuts down on the amount of AN fittings needed to split the stock fuel line. I will not be using the standard Magnuson supplied drivers side fuel rail/fuel block for the new setup, switching to a direct feed into the back of each fuel rail via that NOS Y fitting
Last edited by moregrip; Dec 21, 2006 at 02:08 PM.
Dec 21, 2006 | 04:08 PM
#848
just ordered a couple of $15 bolts 
M16 x 2.0 x 180mm
Stock damper bolt is approx 100mm long
Replacement bolt for Innovators West damper for a vette application (what I have) 130mm long
What I actually need is a bolt 180mm long! doh!
I upgraded to a 12.9 rated bolt and made sure this length bolt would contact all threads in the crank snout. (that was a nice 2 hour journey)
M16 x 2.0 x 180mmStock damper bolt is approx 100mm long
Replacement bolt for Innovators West damper for a vette application (what I have) 130mm long
What I actually need is a bolt 180mm long! doh!
I upgraded to a 12.9 rated bolt and made sure this length bolt would contact all threads in the crank snout. (that was a nice 2 hour journey)
Dec 21, 2006 | 05:50 PM
#850
TECH Veteran
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,632
Likes: 2
From: Sun Diego
Originally Posted by moregrip
quick update:
picked up the drive-shafts from Oceanside Driveline this morning; glad I took them in, they said they were pretty good/close stock but now they are perfect. So that's pretty-much it for all the balance work, I should be good from the crank damper back to the rear-end.
picked up the drive-shafts from Oceanside Driveline this morning; glad I took them in, they said they were pretty good/close stock but now they are perfect. So that's pretty-much it for all the balance work, I should be good from the crank damper back to the rear-end.
