Yeah there’s a jig/tool for Kent Moore I used. It isn’t a good idea to try and be a NHRA Pro Mod and leave head studs in for quick head changes etc. Take the time to remove the stud and set the head on with only a few or none to minimize the risk of damaging head and/or gasket. None of us are in the pits rushing to get ready for the next round.

CA625 is very strong like L19 (L19 > ARP2000) but CA625+ does not require to be kept oiled at ALL times like L19 which makes it a great head stud option. The torque angle method gives a more consistent clamp force and torque due to eliminating friction factor difference between each bolt and hole and only relying on angle and small (more accurate) torque value vs stages of larger values. The timeserts are solid carbon steel and have a larger diameter than the factory M11 and the grooves are timed to give more strength than a helicoil. I have a good bit of links if you’re interested in more info.

Some material info:

https://arp-bolts.mobi/p/tech.php?page=5

Not that I recommend it because of risking damage to the threads, gasket, and head deck surface/holes but if you wanted/needed to install the head with all studs in place you could

I currently have no deadline and I’m in less of a rush than before. Just trying to get well for the most part. It will get completed though as I have 95% of the parts for the entire truck and I can’t let that rot.

No just a factory 5.3 aluminum block that ERL sleeved and trussed. (Using factory LS3 heads with their thin deck as well) trying to add some strength to the block threads to get more clamping force without fear damaging them.