I am going to send you my 408 to polish and assemble for me haha

 

I may not run after haha

 

See if this works

Dual Walbro 450 pumps in Rick's Tanks sending unit

 

So I'm a bit retarded but would you mind posting/pming a link to this? It looks like great quality. I love where you're headed with your build and I'm sure that all of your hard work ensuring that every surface is as close to perfect as you can possibly get it. I get where some of the negative comments above are coming from but I also believe that the direction your headed will be, for lack of better terms, somewhat of a new standard in the way that both professional and diy engine builders treat and assess every possible friction point while they move forward with the assembly process. I could be totally off base but I believe that the smoother and the least amount of friction that it takes to cycle the engine over will equate to the more power that the engine is able to produce. I remember when I was a kid and I was learning how to wrench on pretty much whatever could be wrenched on (broken or not but regardless it usually ended up on the broken side before I'd ask for help ) I can remember my dad randomly saying the phrase "remember nick, Always take the path of least resistance ". It use to **** me off until I finally made sense of what he was trying to teach me. I catch myself while I'm working on something hearing that in my head and it'll make thing go smoother than when I'd fight with whatever I was trying to do. Sorry for my rambling but he yelled it at me today for the first time in years and initially my blood boiled just as it did the last time he said it to me when I was probably 17-18iirc (I'm 35now btw) but when I stopped to think about it I laughed and thanked him for all the times he drilled that into me. The point of this little rant is that the phrase can be applied anywhere and dam near everywhere. If I was building a carbon copy of what you are here I would bet every dime to my name that your build would 100% definitely produce significantly more HP than my build. Yours is definitely on the past of least resistance. I've been watching this thread and im really excited to see how it turns out. Your attention to detail is impressive. If I were in your position I'd be nervous in the polishing stages that I'd either be somewhat inconsistent or I to get a bit overzealous and remove a little too much material causing harm to the required tolerances and said materials ability to retain oil where needed as well as wipe the oil where that's needed. I've been taking notes as this build has progressed and I just had to add my two cents as well as thank you for sharing this with us. Sorry for my rambling, I'll keep my eyes peeled for your updates but I'll try to keep my pie hole shut.

 

Thanks we'll see if it pays off. If anything the coatings will help with dry startups etc. I didn't mean to remove any material when I was polishing/buffing. I just wanted to remove surface asperities. Only buffing wheels and rouges with some metal polish was used.

Here's a link to Rick's site

http://rickstanks.com/products/in-ta...-kits/bolt-in/

 

Tungsten Disulfide .6 micron and Molybdenum disulfide 1.5 micron powders for the piston rings and other things.

 

Piston ring on the right has been coated with Tungsten Disulfide and ring on the left has nothing on it. The tungsten will reduce friction and retain more oil for a better seal and less wear.



These roller lifter bodies have been coated with Diamond Like Carbon (DLC) coating. It's great for wear but the coefficient of friction isn't as low as tungsten or moly coatings. I coated over the DLC with the Tungsten Disulfide. Notice how the one on the right has a slightly grey/metallic sheen to it now.



Roller chains have issues with squeezing the oil film out of the roller/bushing and between the roller/gear teeth. I coated the chain inside and out (even between the rollers/bushings) with moly/Tungsten to provide a solid film lubricant so it will always be lubricated.

 

How do you apply the tungsten disulfide?

I believe this is the exact same product Microblue uses. Any comment on that?

 

I made a paste with it and rubbing alcohol then applied it to the parts and a clean buffing wheel. I let it dry then burnished it onto the parts with the buffing wheel. It actually did a really nice uniform application. It bonds to the substrate so it's not coming off. I used the wife to do a blind test on which parts were slicker (coated vs uncoated parts) and she choose the coated parts each time.

I believe the tungsten is what mircoblue uses. They probably have a more advanced form of applying it though.

 

Did some testing on my spare crank again...