NNBS 4L80e swap
#32
You have a factory 2pc shaft that has two equal length shafts? Every 2pc I've ever seen, regardless of make has had a shorter front shaft. On the GMT800's an equal length shaft setup would put the crossmember through the gas tank.
#33
understood. not saying exact length front and rear. the way his looks to be set up you cant put a stock 2 peice outta a gmt800 like I did. thats what im saying as to having a way shorter front shaft and way longer rear shaft. i cant wait to see this finished but me personally id rather buy a stock dshaft and build my own cross member. i have already put a STOCK gmt-800 2 peice dshaft in my 08ccsb and ive been running it the last 4k miles with no problems. yalls choice to build a custom 2peice not hating on it just saying i think i coulda found something else to spend my money on.
#34
Thread Starter
Mod with training wheels
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,741
Likes: 207
From: Detroit
As you know, the u-joint doesn't sit right above the crossmember...its behind it. From what I've seen, the common recommendation for two piece shaft length is 40% front, 60% rear. Out of the total length, 35% of it is in front of the center of the carrier bearing. Since the u-joint will sit behind that, it should put it almost perfect at 60/40.
I'm spending the extra money to have this shaft custom built because I will not let the driveshaft be the part that fails. It's just not going to happen. Hence the reason I am not putting a driveshaft in my truck that was not designed for it. Not to say they don't work, but I'm not taking any chances. This shaft will be tailored to my truck exactly, and built to meet the power and speed requirements.
I'm spending the extra money to have this shaft custom built because I will not let the driveshaft be the part that fails. It's just not going to happen. Hence the reason I am not putting a driveshaft in my truck that was not designed for it. Not to say they don't work, but I'm not taking any chances. This shaft will be tailored to my truck exactly, and built to meet the power and speed requirements.
#37
Thread Starter
Mod with training wheels
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,741
Likes: 207
From: Detroit
Well, the order is in. I gave the shop all the measurements I took, the owner talked with his guys about what would be best suited for my plans for the truck. He's guaranteeing the driveshaft to 1000hp/tq and 150mph. Sounds good to me
#40
Thread Starter
Mod with training wheels
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,741
Likes: 207
From: Detroit
Remove K(orange), V(light blue), S(white), T(tan/black) and U(brown) wires from transmission connecter. Move U(brown) wire to the S location.
Front Input Speed Sensor (ISS) is made by using the orange and light blue wires. Add a VSS connector, connect orange to terminal A and light blue to terminal B. Move the low signal wire from pin 45 to location 26 in the TCM harness.
Install the front Input Speed Sensor wiring connection
Install the shift selector switch on the driver side you removed from the 60.
The factory speed sensor can plug back into the 80e tailshaft sensor
This is the info from Red_Heartbeat's GMT900 80e swap... Not sure what he means by moving the low signal wire from pin 45 to location 26. Anybody have a pinout diagram for the TCM connector? Don't know where these need to go...
Front Input Speed Sensor (ISS) is made by using the orange and light blue wires. Add a VSS connector, connect orange to terminal A and light blue to terminal B. Move the low signal wire from pin 45 to location 26 in the TCM harness.
Install the front Input Speed Sensor wiring connection
Install the shift selector switch on the driver side you removed from the 60.
The factory speed sensor can plug back into the 80e tailshaft sensor
This is the info from Red_Heartbeat's GMT900 80e swap... Not sure what he means by moving the low signal wire from pin 45 to location 26. Anybody have a pinout diagram for the TCM connector? Don't know where these need to go...






