New S-15 project.......
Sep 11, 2015 | 10:03 PM
#51
Well ****.. damn head stud kit is for the later model LS engines. My block is an 02 but the heads are 05... So I bought the set to match the heads and that was a mistake.
Cost me $300 for the damn stud kit. I look for the ones for the earlier setups and they are $1000+!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHAT THE ****!!!!
Cost me $300 for the damn stud kit. I look for the ones for the earlier setups and they are $1000+!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHAT THE ****!!!!
Is this not what you are looking for ARP Gen III Head Studs (234-4316)?
Last edited by 03chevytruck; Sep 11, 2015 at 10:09 PM.
Sep 11, 2015 | 10:10 PM
#52
I looked up 234-4313
The Official ARP Web Site | Kits
ARP 234-4313, ARP Head Studs w/12-Point Nuts | ARP
The Official ARP Web Site | Kits
ARP 234-4313, ARP Head Studs w/12-Point Nuts | ARP
Sep 11, 2015 | 10:49 PM
#55
CA625 studs, those are the baddest studs you can buy. If I ever get aftermarket thick deck heads I will get those.
The standard ARP studs can be had for around $275 if you get the 6 pt. version
The standard ARP studs can be had for around $275 if you get the 6 pt. version
Sep 12, 2015 | 02:33 PM
#56
Went to Napa and bought some replacement head bolts. The heads are on and so it the front motor plate. But the heads are not torqued down yet because apparently my damn Torque wrench has managed to walk away!! I will find it eventually or go get another one at Sears. Either way, with the S15 up for sale, I don't have a huge hurry to get the engine and trans done. I have been to the parts store 3 times since getting the trans yesterday afternoon and have forgot to get the filter for it EVERY TIME!!
Sep 17, 2015 | 01:13 AM
#58
Current list is as follows since no one is seriously interested in the truck or engine.
Torque Head bolts and return Torque Wrench to friend who loaned it to me
Clean all misc stuff out, then clean and paint engine bay
remove power steering lines or install small loop hose with clamps
remove original engine mounts from frame rails and front block plates from 6.0
remove oem tank and lines
install fuel cell in front of bed and cut hole for the sump and feed lines to sit down inside
install fuel pumps for both carb and nitrous (one on each side of the frame or under the bed)
run feed lines from tank to fuel pumps
remove original driveshaft and carrier bearing cross member
remove all remaining interior
install nitrous bottle mounts (use 10 LB bottle, NOT 15)
roll up both windows and secure with nuts and bolts in tracks
test fit 6.0/glide without front engine plates and bolted to stock location (check if mid plate will fit)
cut alternator mount to clear motor plate
mount alternator in mount and bolt to head to check for belt alignment
test fit water pump with engine plates and see how much water
pump will need to be cut down to get belt to ride
install passenger lower ball joint
Torque Head bolts and return Torque Wrench to friend who loaned it to me
Clean all misc stuff out, then clean and paint engine bay
remove power steering lines or install small loop hose with clamps
remove original engine mounts from frame rails and front block plates from 6.0
remove oem tank and lines
install fuel cell in front of bed and cut hole for the sump and feed lines to sit down inside
install fuel pumps for both carb and nitrous (one on each side of the frame or under the bed)
run feed lines from tank to fuel pumps
remove original driveshaft and carrier bearing cross member
remove all remaining interior
install nitrous bottle mounts (use 10 LB bottle, NOT 15)
roll up both windows and secure with nuts and bolts in tracks
test fit 6.0/glide without front engine plates and bolted to stock location (check if mid plate will fit)
cut alternator mount to clear motor plate
mount alternator in mount and bolt to head to check for belt alignment
test fit water pump with engine plates and see how much water
pump will need to be cut down to get belt to ride
install passenger lower ball joint
