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New Build! RCSB Z71 bone stock to 4L80e / Trick 76mm

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Old Jul 6, 2015 | 01:07 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by GMCtrk
I can drive around normally all day long without going into boost and it feels the same as when it was n/a. No dogginess. It's a stock bottom end LQ9 with the 212/212 cam and 10.6:1 compression.
Lol there's a big difference between a 9.5:1 5.3 and a 10.5:1 6.0
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Old Jul 6, 2015 | 09:39 AM
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Not really. I drove a 4.8 for years, the 6.0 was not radically different just putzing around town.
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Old Jul 6, 2015 | 10:30 AM
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If youre taking the heads off and replacing the lifters at all, might as well have the heads sent out and checked to make sure they are squared up. And if they need to be squared up it wouldn't cost much to have them milled to what you want since they're doing the work all ready. This is what I had done when I had my cam, lifters, pushrods, and springs replaced.

There honestly wasn't much of a difference in power by changing the compression only half a point. We're talking probably less than 5%.
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Old Jul 6, 2015 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by GMCtrk
Not really. I drove a 4.8 for years, the 6.0 was not radically different just putzing around town.
I thought the shorter stroke on the 4.8 actually made it spool faster than a 5.3 ? And the displacement of the 6.0 just makes it more ftw than either?

If youre taking the heads off and replacing the lifters at all, might as well have the heads sent out and checked to make sure they are squared up. And if they need to be squared up it wouldn't cost much to have them milled to what you want since they're doing the work all ready. This is what I had done when I had my cam, lifters, pushrods, and springs replaced.

There honestly wasn't much of a difference in power by changing the compression only half a point. We're talking probably less than 5%.
Yea I'll have to pull the heads off to do the lifters and cam so I might as well have them milled. At 145k, they probably need guides and a valve job as well... That's why I'm tempted to pick up an L33 and go that route, to minimize downtime.
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Old Jul 6, 2015 | 10:25 PM
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Yeah I would get the heads cleaned and everything replaced. Seals, guides, seats, etc.
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Old Jul 6, 2015 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by black00chev
Yeah I would get the heads cleaned and everything replaced. Seals, guides, seats, etc.
Yea I've pretty much decided to do milled 862's, guides/ seals/ valve job and the Tick stage 1 cam and just run it! Any idea what kinda hp #'s I should see with the 76mm turbo?
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Old Jul 6, 2015 | 10:30 PM
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Probably around 650 to the wheels on 15 psi.....enough to hang with your z06
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Old Jul 6, 2015 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by GMCtrk
Probably around 650 to the wheels on 15 psi.....enough to hang with your z06
I appreciate the insight guys. As you guys can probably tell, I've only ever built n/a combos... Not pulling the motor means I can rip into this thing a lot sooner. I still need to order a wastegate and BOV. What brand and size does everyone recommend? I was thinking Tial or Precision. If there's a nearly silent BOV that exists I will go for that one. I'm trying to make this truck as stealth as possible. Dirty 3.5" duramax tailpipe, long *** 3.5" Magnaflow diesel muffler, might throw a cat on it (haven't decided), painted intercooler, no gauges on the a-pillar etc etc...
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Old Jul 6, 2015 | 11:14 PM
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Tial is top notch.

I've got no complaints about my JGS gate....very good quality and USA made (no china bunk). The only thing I would change is to get the R version (race; has a V-band for spring change instead of the PITA snap ring).
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Old Jul 8, 2015 | 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by GMCtrk
Tial is top notch.

I've got no complaints about my JGS gate....very good quality and USA made (no china bunk). The only thing I would change is to get the R version (race; has a V-band for spring change instead of the PITA snap ring).
I'm a bit weary of running the china bov and wastegate that come with the Trick kit... I got an email recently from Trick warning me to check the BOV as "the BOV pistons have two pieces and these parts can separate over time"

I'm tempted to send back the BOV and buy a Tial BOV and 46mm Tial wastegate. Not sure if the 46mm wastegate would mount directly to the Trick piping or not as the stage 3 includes a 38mm wastegate. I've been researching a bit on tech, and guys are saying to run a larger 44/46/50mm wastegate to prevent boost creep. Any thoughts on this?

I did a small project tonight, I finished up mounting my Zeitronix ethanol content gauge where the empty gauge space is in the stock cluster. Lot of work getting that to fit right I'll tell ya! Looks bitchin in there. I also have my Aeroforce scan gauge to monitor trans temp / tcc slip or some other vital and I plan to mount a 2nd Aeroforce somewhere stealth for boost/ afr / fuel pressure. Haven't decided where yet.

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