07 Z71

iTrader: (44)

Oh none whatsoever just that number in tbe sticker means the yeAr it was built lol
Just a heads up

kyle's v

iTrader: (4)

Just curious if there was a reason you wanted to push button 4wd?

I've wanted to do a RCSB 4wd turbo truck for several years now. There's an 04 local to me that someone stuck in a deep mud hole and insurace paid it off. I don't think the motor and transmission are any good but I can get the truck for under 3k. However it has the floor shifter. Wasn't sure if it really mattered or not.

lxcoupe

iTrader: (9)

I wanted it so I could hit 4wd from a roll and be able to hook anytime anywhere. I had the floor shift transfer case on my 12 sec powerstroke and it was fine at the track but otherwise you had to be at a complete stop to put it in 4wd, not to mention get out of the truck and click the adjusters to lock the hubs manually. Serious off-roaders prefer floor shift a lot of the time as the actuators that lock the hubs can go bad after time, whereas manually lock long hubs never go bad, but for me I wanted to just hit the button and hook in 4wd and not have to fuss with drag radials or slicks.

kyle's v

iTrader: (4)

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe there ''shift on the fly'' right. I do know you can't install the console with the floor shifter.

treylittlefield

You talking about a long center console that runs from the dash? I have one in my 99 and its a floor shift

lxcoupe

iTrader: (9)

I did not know that, but I would have bought a floor shift truck if I had found one in my area. I could not find a 4wd rcsb anywhere in the state, I was about to pull the trigger on an out of state truck when I found one in LA at a used car lot. Paid a bit more than book on it but it came out about the same since I would have had to pay shipping or a flight + gas to get one from out of state.

lxcoupe

iTrader: (9)

Ok guys, got done with the 80e / Transgo HD2 / Circle D 2B 258mm swap last week and already put 1500 miles on it. Did a road trip up to Lake Tahoe and the trans performed flawlessly. I disabled torque management and lowered shift times down to .200 and also changed when the converter unlocks when you let off the throttle while crusing. Very stoked on how this trans shifts. Jake's recommendations for drilling the valve body sizes seems spot on. I will say that the truck was a TOTAL dog with the 80e before I disabled torque management, omg.

I was also able to get all the Belltech stuff on and finish up the suspension and get it aligned.

So far on the suspension, here's what I've done:
Belltech spindles
Belltech keys
Belltech hangers
Belltech shock extensions
stock replacement Tahoe Z71 jounce stops front
Belltech rear bumpstops bolted directly to frame
Bilstein HD shocks
new front lower control arms (bushings were shot)
new front axles
new endlinks
Belltech offset upper control arm bushings
new balljoints in uppers

I had to do rear shoes and wheel cylinders as one was leaking. Guess that's just the breaks with a 140k mile truck. **warning** when doing wheel cylinders try and use OEM GM if you can afford it. I used O'Reilly brand Master Pro and had an ear on one break on me (the powdered metal is real soft). Then I ordered AC Delco off Amazon and I noticed they were identical to the Master Pro, I had an AC Delco break on me as I took it out of the package lol. I had to use 1 Master Pro and 1 AC Delco to get the truck back on the road and all is good now, but looking back I would have just used GM wheel cylinders. The Lisle tool for the shoe spring is absolutely invaluable. No idea how you would do shoes on these trucks without that tool.

Anyhow, here are a couple of pics. Truck sits 3/4" lower in front, but I had some gear in the bed in some of these shots so it sort of looks like the rear is lower than the front.











I am working a deal on an L33, and I will do the motor and turbo at the same time. I hope to tear this thing apart in the next couple weeks.

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

Looks awesome. So how much is the total drop? It looks around 3 front and 4-5 rear by my eye from 2wd height. What did you use in the rear to drop?

lxcoupe

iTrader: (9)

Thanks! When the truck was bone stock I measured fender to ground at:

F 35.5" / R 38.5".
Now: 32.25" / 33"

So a drop of roughly 3.25" front/ 5.5" rear. I want to drop the front another 1/4" but the truck rides so damn good I'm scared of messing anything up lol. I'm running stock replacement uncut bumpstops up front. For the rear I'm using Belltech rear hangers, Belltech shackles on lower hole (I could drop the truck another inch or so if I put the shackles on the upper hole), and Bilstein HD's in the back.

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

Interesting, so the Bilstein's seem to work with a 4" rear drop.

If you're happy with the ride I wouldn't go too much lower.