Damn I thought I was going to help you, found this pic from my install that shows that spring

 

Hi I'm new here and was reading your build. I have a engine at LME also. Brian is really helpful. Hoping to have my engine back in the next couple of weeks. Its a 6.0 iron block also. Bored .030 over when sent to them, had some scratches on some of the cylinder walls so it will be honed another .010 making it .040. Now will be a 410. Only I opted for 10.5 comp. Brian ordered 11. to 1 and said with my heads that would put me 10.5 or so. I'm running a 850 Pro Systems carb. No computer either. I'm really anxious to here how your motor runs. Really sounds great Turbo and all. That will really be neat seeing a 4WD lifted pickup going that well. By the way....... My pickup is a 06 GMC RCSB.

 

Yours looks like the np243 anyway, which doesnt help me much because mine is the manual np261. Thanks though



Steve, I drove around with the new engine for a few days before I pulled my truck in the garage to start everything else and it is working fine. I am pleased with LME's service. There were a few mis-communications but Bryan went out of his way to make it right. As far as the toughness of the engine, he said it would be good to 900hp and since im building for 800hp it should do fine.

 

Brian said mine would be around 500 HP just on the motor and I will have up to 250 shot on top of that. Not sure what will be put to the ground. So I might have 600 to the wheels. This is the 2nd time in 3 months I've done the bottom end. If I'd of known that I was going to have to spend 8500 bucks I would have rather spent 6500 on a 427 LSX.

 

I got one of those case saver things to prevent the pump damaging the case since I knew I would be in there anyway. You can also see where the spring goes.


Bigass fuel line, run beside the stock line


The crossmember a friend of mine modified for me works perfectly, and is a hell of a lot easier than trying to section the crossmember and move it back. There is about 1.5" of clearence from the pan and the crossmember.


Cooler lines fit...actually a little too long, not messing with the annoying factory hardline is very nice. You can also see the turbo return fitting on the pan.


Turbo feed from my 5.3 block off thing...


Discovered somewhat of a clearence issue with the manual shift tcase and the 80e, I should be able to zip tie stuff out of the way, but thought I would point it out.

 

I know how you feel. The 408 that this block was in its previous life only lasted me about 1000 miles before needing to be rebuilt because of taper in the crank journal.

 

That crossmember worked out nicely. Does it look like you can remove the pan without removing the crossmember?

 

Is the drain going to interfere with the starter?

 

thats what I was gonna ask

edit, from the pics I have, its gonna be within a **** hair, but work

 

I could probably remove the pan without removing the crossmember, just have to slide it forward some.

The fitting is a little high, but should be fine to go around the starter. Any lower and its at the level of the oil in the pan. It does not hit the starter at all.